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E MAIL US YOUR GARDENING COMMENTS AND TIPS

FLOATING ROW COVERS



Floating row covers are handy items for any gardener in any

climate. A floating row cover is a lightweight spunbonded

white fabric made of either polyester or polypropylene. It

is most often used to protect plants from a light frost, but

it has uses for gardeners in warmer climates too.



When a light frost is expected in either spring or fall,

floating row cover fabric can be draped over plants to help

hold in warmth from the ground, protecting your plants from

freezing. A lightweight row cover will give 2-4 degrees of

temperature protection for your plants, while heavier row

covers will provide frost protection in temperatures as low

as 20 degrees. Used in the spring , row covers allow you to

start your garden up to two weeks early.



Sunlight and rain will both pass through the floating row

cover to your plants, so the fabric can be left on the plants

as needed. Since the fabric is so lightweight, any breeze will

send it drifting away if it isn't anchored down. Secure the

edges of the fabric to the ground with rocks, piles of soil, or

wire earth staples. Earth staples are simply U-shaped wires

that are pushed through the fabric and into the soil to hold the

fabric down.



Floating row covers make good barriers against hungry animals who

want to eat your plants. Foil the neighborhood rabbits by draping

floating row cover over young plants until the plants are a bit

older and not as desirable for bunny lunches.



Floating row covers can also prevent insects from attacking your

plants. This is particularly useful for vegetable crops such as

broccoli or squash. If the butterflies can't lay their eggs on

your crop you won't have any little green worms hiding amongst

the broccoli florets. Similarly, squash bugs can't reach squash

plants that are hiding under a floating row cover. But make sure

to remove the fabric from the plants when they begin to flower so

pollinating insects can reach the blossoms.



Floating row covers are available in garden centers and gardening

catalogs. The fabric comes in a variety of widths and lengths,

and can be purchased in lengths long enough to cover an entire row

of plants. If used and stored carefully, the fabric can last for

several years.


Fall is the Time to Plant Garlic



Fresh garlic is a staple in many kitchens, and good cooks

know that a hint of garlic can enhance many dishes. The

pungent bulbs are incredibly easy to grow and homegrown

garlic will be far better and keep longer than what is

sold in the supermarket.



Fall is the best time to plant garlic. Garlic cloves

may be planted in well-drained soil from about the time

of the first frost up until November. It is harvested

in the summer after the bottom half of the leaves have

begun to turn brown.



To plant garlic, break apart the bulbs into individual

cloves. To grow larger garlic bulbs, plant only the

largest cloves. Plant the cloves about two inches deep

and four to six inches apart in rich soil. The roots

will start to grow over winter, but you won't see any top

growth until spring. Give your garlic a blanket of mulch

to protect the bulbs from heaving out of the soil over

winter and to help keep down weeds.



Young garlic can be mistaken for grass when it begins to

sprout, but a quick pinch of the leaves will release their

aroma and eliminate any mistakes when weeding the patch.



There are many varieties of garlic available to choose from,

but two main types; soft neck and hard neck. The soft neck

varieties have a soft stem that makes them easy to braid.

Soft neck garlic bulbs have larger cloves on their outside

layer with smaller cloves towards the center of the bulb.

Soft neck garlic generally stores well, up to nine months.



Hard neck garlic has a stiff central stalk with fewer but

larger cloves. It tends to be more winter hardy than soft

neck varieties but doesn't store as well, typically only

five to six months. Hard neck garlic is a bit easier to

peel than the soft neck varieties.



If you enjoy garlic, try planting some this fall. You'll

be glad you did!

Fall Rose Plant Care



Proper care of rose plants in the fall will help ensure that

your plants come back strong and healthy next spring.



Roses love the warm days and cool nights in the fall and often

put out their best blooms for fall enjoyment. Fall weather

encourages the plants to form more perfect blossoms, but the

weather can also encourage blackspot, one of the most common

rose problems. Blackspot can defoliate a rose plant, and a

plant that loses its leaves too soon will struggle to survive

through winter. Maintain a regular schedule of fungicide

sprays for your roses until the plants go dormant and drop

their leaves naturally.



Gardeners in cold climates should stop fertilizing their roses

in early September. No matter where you live, a general rule

for roses is to stop applying fertilizers one month prior to

the first frost date for your area, or a month before the

deciduous trees typically drop their leaves.



Pruning your roses will encourage new growth and will also

cause the sap to run in the stems. Tender new growth is

vulnerable to winter damage, so rose plants should not be

pruned in the fall. During the growing season, the spent

blossoms should be deadheaded often, and this will also

encourage new growth. But stop deadheading spent blossoms

about a month before the first frost. This will allow the

remaining blooms to develop into rosehips and signal the plant to

prepare for winter and go dormant. Go ahead and cut a few of the

more beautiful blossoms to enjoy indoors if you want, but try to

limit any pruning or cutting of the plant in the fall.



Tips for Growing and Producing Flowers on Hydrangea



Hydrangea macrophylla, the pink and blue hydrangea are

commonly known as Big Leaf or Mophead. Most of these bloom

in July or August in either blue or pink, although a few varieties

are white.

If you have pink blooms and would like them to be blue, simply amend the soil with aluminum sulfate. Your local garden center

will have aluminum sulfate.

Apply it around plants that are at least two years old and be

sure to water the plants well before applying. One tablespoon

of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water is recommended, and

can be applied throughout the growing season. Don't overdo it

though. Too much can burn the roots and harm the plant.

If your soil is naturally acidic but you want pink hydrangea

blooms, a fertilizer high in phosphorus will prevent the plant

from taking up aluminum and the blooms will become pink.



Prune your macrophylla hydrangea right after they bloom. They start producing flower buds for next year as soon as they finishing blooming, so if you wait too late to trim them you'll cut off the flower buds for next year.



PeeGee hydrangeas bloom white then turn pinkish. PeeGee's bloom on the current years growth. Therefore you can trim them

from the time they quit blooming until mid spring. PeeGee is hardy up to zone 3 and can also be trained into tree form.



Annabelle hydrangeas have white blooms that can reach up to

ten inches in diameter. They also bloom on new growth so trim

them just as you would PeeGee.



Oak Leaf hydrangeas like sun but they do not like wet feet. They

also bloom on old wood, and should be pruned after blooming

but before they start to make new buds in August.

 


1. I use chicken wire around my montauk dasiys to keep them upright and prevent them from spilling over..

2. for bee stings try mixing amona and accent(meat tenderizer) into a paste and apply to the bee sting.

3. toothpaste can also be applied to a bee sting.

4. Mr. Bills experiment with dahlia tubers after digging out in the fall and dried:somewhat shrunken,rotten/fungus  plagued tubers were put into  4 gallons of water in a  5 gallon bucket with a tablespoon of liquid dish detergent and kept in a garage with a constant  water temperature of between 40 and 45 degrees for anywhere from 7 to 10 weeks..when they were removed the tuber clusters were plump and  healthy  looking. Now they have to be planted to see if they flower..

5. Slugs thrive in moist, shady conditions.  They like to hide under
debris, under plants that offer the deep shade they love, and
under logs or rock piles.  To help prevent slug damage, water
your garden in the morning so the plants are dry by evening when
slugs are active. 
 
You can use their attraction to shade to trap slugs.  Set out
boards, shingles or damp newspaper in the garden overnight.  The
slugs will see this as a new place to hide.  In the morning lift
the boards or newspaper, collect the slugs that have gathered
beneath it and drop them into a container of soapy water.  Do this
for several nights and the slug population will be significantly
reduced. 
 
Another simple way to eliminate slugs is to use ordinary household
ammonia.  Add 2 ½ cups of ammonia to a gallon jug, then fill the
jug with water.  Spray this solution at dusk when the slugs are
active.   Be especially careful to spray under the leaves and on
the ground beneath the plants where slugs hang out.  If you're
using boards or wet newspapers to catch slugs you can also spray
this solution on the slugs that have gathered overnight.  The
spray will  kill slugs on contact, and since ammonia is a source
of nitrogen, the spray will also give your plants a little boost.  
When spraying the ammonia solution, be careful to not get it in
your eyes. 



THE INFORMATION ON OUR SITE IS MEANT AS A REFERENCE TOOL

Gardening Tips for February   1. Stay off frozen turf as much as possible. 2. If not already done, order seeds it once for early starting. Also ordered nursery stock              for later delivery. 3.  Check mulches placed around plants in late fall to see if they are still in place. 4.  We are pansies, English daisies, and forget-me-nots are over-wintering cold frames, the frames must keep cool and well ventilated all day when the temperatures above freezing. 5. All kinds of cuttings, i.e., Coleus, heliotrope, fuchsia, Begonia, and Lantana root easily at this time of year and make attractive plants for setting out in May. 6. Sow  seed of kalanchoe, and Jerusalem cherry for blossoming plants next Christmas. 7.  Prune flowering shrubs, particularly old, overgrown ones and those that bloom and summer on week that will develop the spring.  Space selectively prune and spring flowering trees and shrubs soon after they flour. 8.  Selling of the following annuals that need a long season of growth should be made now.  They include  browallia, Coleus, lobelia, Petunia (large flowered ) snapdragons , vinca rosea, and verbina.  Use the soil this mix is the propagating medium.      Choose Vegetable Varieties According to Needs.     Choosing seeds and plants thoughtfully can spell the difference between success and failure is growing season.  For each variety consider the following points: specific use, growth habitat and mature size, vigor in yield, adaptability, and disease and insect resistance.  Specific use.  Some varieties are best for immediate use, while others may be ideal for freezing or canning.  Some keep well in storage, and others are fine for all of these purposes.  Just be sure the variety you select is right for the uses you have in mind.  Growth habits and mature size.  If you have limited space in your garden, look for space-saving vegetable varieties.  Each year, new ones are introduced, including compact forms of squash cucumber cantaloupe and watermelon.  Vigor and yield.  These qualities partly depend on soil fertility, available water and other growing conditions.  However, when selecting varieties it often pays to buy hybrids.  These are plants that have been developed for specific characteristics, including improve quality and higher yield.Adaptability.  How well of vegetable variety grows in a given locality is basic to wise selection.  In part, this involves general climatic conditions, including length of growing season.  Much of this information is found in seed catalogs and on the packet.  However, you must be aware of your garden's own growing conditions that can affect plant performance, such as soil depth and texture and exposure to sun and wind.Disease resistance.  Select disease-resistant varieties, where ever possible.  This is especially important for vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers and cantaloupes that is subject to wilts mildew and viruses.Insects and other pest resistance.  Plant breeders have made some progress in selecting stock for resistance.  One example is nematode - resistance tomatoes.  However, if you don't want to be bothered by blogs, select types of vegetables it seem naturally less attractive to pests.  Some good examples are carrots, lettuce, Swiss chard and butternut squash.  You may wish to avoid those vegetables known to attract bugs including corn, cabbage, beans and certain squashes.                                           
 Care of Your Indoor Plants. 1. Houseplants may be damaged by all watering and poor drainage.  If the drain is slow, repot your plants use plenty of broken crockery while crushed stone in the bottom and as soil mixed with additional sandal perlite. 2. Turn and prune houseplants regularly to keep them shapely.   3.  House plants need all the light they can receive during the winter but may need the protection of the thin gauze curtain from the direct sun in a western window in the afternoon. 4.  Do not place plants on the TV set.  This is one of the hottest places in the house because of heat released by the tubes. 5.  Group plants together and place plants in the bathroom when in the kitchen sink this will also increase the humidity level around the plants. 6.  To increase humidity around plants, place body plants on a shallow tray about 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep and fill it with pebbles.  Pebbles should always be kept moist.                                      
Gardening Tips for Early March
. 1.   Hearty plants in cold frames should be grown as cool as practical in preparation for their transfer to the open garden.  Keeps dash off on  favorable occasions in ventilating a little bit night unless temperature is to drop below 30°F. 2. Have your garden soil tested for pH level by Cornell Cooperative extension offices or garden centers. 3.  Space complete any pruning still to be done on fruit trees. 4. Begin indoor soling on the lights were in the greenhouses of the following annuals:ageratum, alyssum, pastors, globe amaranth,nicotiana , bedding petunias, annual flocks, snapdragons, stocks and scabiosa. 5. Check stored tubers and bulbs remove any that show signs of rot lightly moistened the storage material around them to initiate shoot growth. 6.  If orchids, a forest, and other tropical foliage plants are grown in a greenhouse, light shading should be put on the glass at this time. 7. Department plants in pots and tubs growing in the greenhouses or greenhouses that did not get attention last month should probably be  repotted or lightly top dressed. 8. Repot geraniums and Lantana has grown in the house over the winter. 9. Sell peppers, early tomatoes, a plants, celery, broccoli, and Coley flower under fluorescent lights or in the greenhouses.  So peas in the vegetable garden.                                 Grow Healthy Seedlings Indoors     To grow strong, healthy transplants, one should use fresh seeds purchased from a reliable seed dealer. Some seeds left from past years may germinate, but they may not have enough figure to grow into strong, healthy plants, or it be selective about the soil in pots you start your seedlings in.  The soil is plotting mixtures are excellent for starting seedlings because they are sterile and are designed to provide adequate aeration of roots and water retention.  If garden soil is used, it has to be sterilized.  Simply spread the soil in a thin layer over cookie sheets, and heated in an almond for half an hour and 160°F.  Gardener should use plastic pots rather than clay ones, because clay pots are heavy and tend to harbor organisms,that could be damaging to seedlings. Plastic cells and pot should be sterilized by soaking them in a solution of one tablespoon of bleach to every pint of water.  Rinse well and dry before getting the soil mixture.   A slow release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil.  And a very small amount before planting the seeds.  That initial dose of fertilizer should be good for about three weeks after that, fertilizer seedlings every two weeks with a water-soluble plant food makes to half its recommended strength.  What is seedlings when the growing media is dry to touch, and provide enough water so that soaks the soil and runs out through the drainage holes in the pot.  Never let a plants in water, to let plants dry between watering.  All seedlings will need 14 hours of light for best growth when artificial light is needed for supplement, position fluorescent tubes five to 6 inches over the plants. 

we would like to thank cornell cooperative extension of suffolk county   for their gardening tips.

Weeds need oxygen, sunlight, and nutrition to survive.  So we have to find a way to deprive them of those essentials without harming the plants and flowers in your beds.   First let's start with some preparation work.  The first thing you must do is eliminate any and all weeds that are currently growing in your planting beds.  But the secret is to start this process as early as possible, because it really takes at least two weeks to do this effectively.   Basically what you are going to do is disturb all the weeds in your beds by either rototilling, or chopping and digging with a hoe or other garden tools.  Just loosen the soil and uproot the weeds.  You can dispose of the weeds if they are large, but if they are just small weeds just uproot them and leave them lay in the bed so the sun can dry them out.  That will kill them.   Once you have all of the soil disturbed just leave it be for at least three warm, dry days.  Then repeat process again.  This eliminates any weeds that you might have missed, or any that have sprouted since your last effort.  You should do this at least 3 times.  Disturb all of the soil, then allow it to dry, then disturb again, then one more time.   Once you are confident that you have eliminated all existing weeds, smooth out the soil and start spreading newspaper over the bed area, then cover the newspaper with mulch.   But . . . . . the newspaper must be at least 7 pages thick!   A single sheet of newspaper won't do the trick.   The newspaper will keep any weed seeds in the soil at bay until they expire.  Then the newspaper rots right into the soil and you never even know it was there.   A nice thick layer of mulch on top of the newspaper will greatly improve this process.  At least 2 inches, maybe 3 inches.    
              

THE FOLLOWING ARE MONTHLY TIPS FOR EDIBLE,AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS FOR INDOOR AND OUTDOOR USE.

May - Edible Potatoes and green peppers produce better when grown over a white plastic mulch. Harvest green onions, lettuce and radishes from early garden. Plant melons, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes and other warm season vegetables.  Check to see if bees are visiting blossoms on fruit trees. Numerous bee visits mean a good fruit set.
Soak roots of fruit trees and small fruits before planting.
Tomatoes started from seed can be planted in the garden when they have 5-7 leaves. Use heavy duty mesh for reinforcing concrete for tomato cages. It will last forever and not rust.
 Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Remove all leaves that would be under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem. Use a garden hose to outline a new garden bed. Cut or pinch off flowers in new strawberry plantings.
 Protect transplants from cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard 2" wide by 8" long and staple them into a band and place around plants. Press collar about one inch into the soil. Harden off vegetable transplants before planting. Put outdoors for two hours first day and one hour or so each day for a week.
Plant several varieties of sweet corn with different maturity dates. Begin spray schedule to control diseases and insects on fruit trees.
 Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing.
 
Water transplanted tomatoes using a 2 liter plastic bottle with the bottom cut off. Drill a hole in the cap. Stick the cap end 6-8 inches into the soil and fill bottle with water. Place bottle about 12" from transplant. Mark the handle of your spade or hoe in inches for a handy measuring device for row width and planting distances. Paint or tape the measurements on the handle. A coat of varnish can make the marks last longer. Cover tender vegetables with floating row covers (Reemay) or old blankets or sheets when frost is predicted. Will provide protection down to 28 degrees F.
Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing.
Plant muskmelon and watermelon at end of month.
May - Ornamentals Avoid floppy peonies by planting the smaller flower Japanese singles. Plant trees, shrubs and fruit trees. Plant multiflora petunias. They withstand storms and heat better than other types of petunias. Plant annuals, perennial flowers and herbs near the end of May. Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This practice reduces weeds, reduces fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks attractive.
Make a tomato cage birdbath. Buy a tomato cage, a large plastic flower pot saucer, morning glory seeds and string. Criss-cross string through the cage. Place saucer on top of cage. Plant morning glory seeds around cage. Fill saucer with water.

Choose plants that are easy to maintain. Plants that do not need "deadheading" include begonias, impatiens, coleus, alyssum, ageratum, lobelia, vinca and salvia. Prune most spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, viburnum and lilacs after bloom. Plant gladiolus corms early this month. Plant corms every 7-10 days for blooms all summer. Finish uncovering roses and tender perennials.
Do not refuel a gasoline powered engine when it is hot or running. The exhaust could ignite gasoline. Let engine cool 5 minutes before refueling.

Allow spring bulb foliage to die naturally. Leaves manufacture the food resources which are stored in the bulb for a repeat showing next year.
Grow statice, globe amaranth and strawflowers for drying. Factsheet available. As leaves emerge on roses spray with appropriate fungicide every 7-20 days to prevent blackspot.
Pinch back annuals when 4 to 6 inches high to promote bushy growth. Some that require pinching are zinnias, petunias and salvia. Avoid deep cultivation of evergreens that might wound roots.
 Evergreens have many roots near the soil surface.
Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed infestation. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be kept between 2 to 3 inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one third of the blade at each cutting.
 Use impatiens in shady areas. Begonias, coleus, ageratum, salvia and vinca prefer light shade (5 to 6 hours of sunlight).
Don't spray pesticides on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted, it may endanger other crops, animals or people.

Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier use.
Raised beds should be no wider than four feet so plants can be reached from both sides.
Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of water each week.
Make a support rod for your hanging baskets using an old mop or broom handle. Place two sturdy hooks into your porch or patio roof about as far apart as the handle is long. Suspend the rod with two equal lengths of chain. The rod can hold several hanging baskets, depending on size.

Break up the overgrown roots of container grown plants with a knife or trowel.
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp, grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.
Cut off dead flower heads of tulips and daffodils. Identify garden insects before spraying with an insecticide.
May - Indoors Cacti will bloom sooner if they are root bound in a small pot. Avoid chilling houseplants by watering them with cold tap water. Let water stand until it reaches room temperature. Water dry houseplants before fertilizing and never fertilize wilted plants. Adding fertilizer to a dry root ball burns the roots, damaging or killing the plant. Avoid over potting African violets. They bloom better in small pots. June -
Edible
In late June stop harvesting asparagus and fertilize. Harvest peas when pods are plump. After harvesting replant the area. Keep cucumbers consistently moist to keep them from becoming bitter.
 Do not walk through a garden after watering or rain. This can spread disease. Do not worry about June fruit drop on fruit trees. It is a natural occurrence. Make a homemade grow bag. Fill a large, heavy-duty, plastic trash bag with a soil mix (Pro-mix) and plant a tomato. Plant green soybeans. They have a buttery, crunchy flavor. Are a snack food in Japan.
Stake tomato plants with 4'-5' stakes. Plant cucumber varieties 'Spacemaster' and 'Salad Bush' for small gardens or containers. Plant beans, cucumbers, squash, sweet corn and late tomatoes. Side-dress eggplants, tomatoes and peppers with fertilizer when they set their first fruit.
Do not slice a tomato until you are ready to eat it. According to USDA research a tomato loses its aroma and flavor just three minutes after slicing.
Mulch tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Mulches help keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Different colored mulch materials reflect different wave lengths of light and have produced noticeable results. Tomato harvests increased significantly in both size and quality when plants were grown over red plastic.  Catch earwigs and sowbugs by trapping them in moistened, rolled up newspapers. The earwigs and sowbugs will hide in the paper during the day. Dispose of the newspapers. Make a vegetable cleaning box. Replace the bottom of a wooden box with chicken wire. Place just picked vegetables in box and rinse off. Harvest strawberries.
Water the garden with the equivalent of one inch of water per week.

To protect bees that pollinate many of our crop plants, spray pesticides in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.
Make a sunflower room for the kids. Draw a square in the soil and plant sunflowers around the square. Leave an open space for kids to go in their outdoor room.

 Prune and tie "staked" tomatoes plants - factsheet available. Use about 3-4 inches layer of newspaper for a mulch around vegetables. Dip newspaper in a bucket of water before placing on ground so it will not blow around. Plant pumpkins in early June. Carve your child's name in the skin of a young pumpkin. Name will expand as pumpkin grows.
Check cucumbers for cucumber beetles. Beetles can cause a bacterial wilt disease. Cover with a floating row cover (Reemay) until they flower.
Grow sweet potatoes. Use the short season variety 'Georgia Jet.'
June - Ornamentals Pinch back annuals at 4" - 6" high. Helps to promote bushy growth. For large rose blooms disbud the side shoots from grandifloras and hybrid teas. When you buy container grown nursery stock, check the root ball and make sure it is not bound too tightly. A mass of circling roots will stay that way even after it is in the ground.
Bug zappers kill more beneficial insects than mosquitoes. They also attract insects.
Do not use peat moss as a mulch. When it dries, it becomes impermeable to rain. It's best to mix it with soil.
Climbing roses don't really climb, they have long canes that require support. You'll need to loosely tie the canes to trellises with broad strips of material. Do not use wire, it can damage the cane.

Spray insecticides late in evening to avoid injury to bees.

Grow scented geraniums. They make great air fresheners.
Plant bottle gourds and make a birdhouse.
Apply mulches to roses, annuals and perennials.
Shrubs and perennials look nice as foundation plantings, but rain may not reach under the eaves, so you may need to water frequently.
Bronze-leaved varieties of begonia do particularly well in full sun. Keep the foliage dry and provide good air circulation around the plants.
Make your own hummingbird food. Boil 4 cups of water and stir in 2 cups of sugar. Cool and fill feeder. Keep leftover food in refrigerator.
Harvest herbs just before flowering. The leaves contain the maximum essential oils. Cut herbs early on a sunny day. Mulch clematis roots with an organic mulch 4"-6" deep. They like their roots cool.
Trees drop leaves in
June. This is normal. Not to worry.
Stake perennials as needed before they become broken or damaged.

For hanging baskets in cool, shady location, use trailing tuberous begonias, ferns, impatiens or fibrous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants, such as English ivy.
 Bats can be an important weapon for insect control. A brown bat can eat 3,000-7,000 insects per day/night. Attract bats with bat houses..
June - Indoors Don't rush to move your houseplants outdoors. Cool weather can cause leaf drop. Keep cats away from diffenbachia. Diffenbachia contains a chemical that is very irritating to the animal's mouth. It can make the cat's tongue swell and interfere with breathing. Turn houseplant pots a half turn every two days to promote even growth. Rubber plants, Eureka palms, Peace lilies, Spider plants and pothos can make your indoor environment healthier by removing pollutants from the air.

Insects and Pests.....

There are very effective organic insecticides and repellents
available these days, and in a pinch you can make your own
natural insect repellent.
 
Most insects prefer a bland diet, so by making your garden
spicy you can encourage insects to dine elsewhere.  A hot
pepper or garlic spray works great as a repellent and can
actually prevent insects  - and even hungry rabbits - from
nibbling on your plants.
 
To make hot pepper spray, toss a couple of hot peppers, such
as cayennes or habaneros, in a blender with about a cup of water. 
Puree the mixture, strain out any solids, then add enough water
to make a gallon of concentrated hot pepper juice. 
 
To use the hot pepper spray, mix a quarter cup of the concentrate
with a gallon of water and a tablespoon or two of liquid soap. 
The soap will help the spray stick to the plants. 
 
To make a garlic spray, roughly chop one or two garlic bulbs,
place them in a quart jar and pour boiling water over the garlic,
enough to fill the jar.  Close the jar and let it sit overnight. 
Strain out the chunks of garlic and add the garlic water to your
sprayer along with a few drops of liquid soap.  Leftover garlic
water can be kept frozen for later use.
 
A good place to buy liquid soap for this purpose would be a health
food store.  Do not use a detergent or a heavily scented soap as
these can be harmful to plants.  Once you've made your insect
repellent concoction, test it on a few leaves first before spraying
your plants.
 
The hot pepper and garlic smell will be strong when first applied
but will fade, and your flowers and vegetables won't take on their
odor or taste.  The spray should be reapplied every week or two, or
after a rainfall.




Why Some Summer Squash Doesn't Mature



It happens all too often. You'll see big blossoms on your summer

squash plants and tiny little squashes forming behind the

blossoms. But after a few days the blossom dries up and the

tiny squash shrivels and turns brown. Why does this happen?



There are a number of reasons why this may be occurring in your

garden. The first thing to consider is the weather. Extreme

temperatures of below 55 degrees or above 85 degrees while the

plant is flowering can affect the plant's ability to set fruit.

Squash enjoy warm weather, but not too warm!



Squash plants prefer to grow in full sunlight. If they're not

getting enough sun, the plants protest by not setting fruit.

They're also fair weather friends. If the plants are blossoming

and a heavy rain occurs, the rain can wash the pollen from the

male flowers, preventing the female flowers from being

pollinated. Likewise, never water your squash plants with an

overhead sprinkler early in the morning. Each male flower opens

for only a few hours in the morning. It's in the morning hours

that pollination is most likely to take place, and a sprinkler

can wash away the pollen.



You can help pollinate your summer squash but first you need to

know how to tell a female squash blossom from a male squash

blossom. It's easy once you know the difference. The female

blossoms will have a tiny squash forming directly behind the

blossom, while the male blossoms have just a stalk behind the

blossom. That little squash behind the female blossom is the

ovary, and if it isn't pollinated it will wither and fall off.



To pollinate your squash blossoms, go out to the garden in the

morning, before 10 a.m., armed with a cotton swab or small

paintbrush. Now locate a male flower and gather some pollen by

rubbing your swab or brush on the stamen in the center of the

flower. You'll see the yellow pollen on your swab or brush.

Then move on to a female flower and rub the pollen onto the

pistil in the center of the female blossom. Voila! You have

pollinated your squash and will be rewarded with fresh, tasty

vegetables for your dinner table.


Orange Stuff on Your Lawn

A lot of people have been wondering about the orange

powder that's getting all over their feet and shoes when

they walk across their own lawn.

It's called Rust. It's a turf grass fungus that forms on lawns when the temperatures are warm and the air is humid. It's

much worse if you water your lawn at night, or if you get

a lot of rainfall.

It's a catch 22 situation because we are told to raise our lawn mowers to the highest setting during the hot summer months to keep our lawns from burning out. But when we leave our grass that long, it doesn't dry as quickly as it should, and the lawn stays a lot more humid than is healthy.

Early morning watering is best, but we can't control rainfall. So when it rains at night when it's hot and humid, fungal lawn

pests appear.

Rust appears during hot and humid conditions. As soon as

temps drop as well as the humidity, the Rust disappears. It tends to attack stressed lawns more than it does healthy lawns. But then again, when it's really hot any lawn is stressed. Urrrrrg!

I have it on my lawn right now, and my coarse of action is

to just chill. It will go away.

For more details on this annoying lawn pest, check out this

link:

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/FactSheets/turfrust/rust.htm

Winter Tree Pruning Tips

January is the time to prune many of the trees in your yard.

They are dormant now and don't mind being pruned at all.

1. Start on the inside of the tree. Remove any dead wood

or any branches that are growing toward the center of the

tree.

2. Remove any branches that are crossing another branch

or rubbing together. The inside of the tree needs to be open and airy.

3. Move to the outside of the tree. Stand back and look at the tree and imagine how you would like the tree to look. Draw an imaginary line around the tree to the exact shape of how you want the tree to look. Then start removing any branches that are growing outside of that line.

4. The same rules apply for the outside of the tree. Open

the tree up a little and remove any branches that are too

close to another branch or are rubbing or crossing another branch.

6. When removing branches near the trunk of the tree

always make your cuts as close to flush with the trunk as possible and do not leave a stub sticking out.

7. Wounds larger than a 50¢ piece can be painted over with

a tree wound dressing, but in most cases it's not necessary, ands some professionals feel that wound dressings slow the healing process.

8. That's it! Your tree will love you for it.

Propagating Grape Plants

Many varieties of grape plants are really easy to propagate

and right now is a good time to try some as hardwood cuttings.

The easiest thing to do is just remove a long section of grape vine from the parent plant and cut that long vine into multiple cuttings. I've worked with grape vines as long as 13 feet long.

Since grapes are vigorous growers the amount of space

between the bud unions on the vine can range from 3 or 4

inches to as far apart as 10 inches. As you inspect the vine

it's easy to distinguish the bud unions, they are the bumps on

the vine that almost look like a knuckle or a joint.

Each cutting that you make should contain at least 3 bud

unions. One near the top, one in the middle, and one at the bottom. The cut you make at the bottom of the cutting is the most critical. You can use regular by-pass pruners to make your cuts, but when you make the cut at the bottom of the

cutting you want to cut right below the bud union, but NOT

INTO the bud union. Cut about 1/8" below the bud union.

At the top of the cutting just cut about an inch above the top

bud union. Leaving that extra one inch at the top protects

that top bud as you handle the cuttings.

After you make your cuttings just dig a narrow trench in

your garden, push the cuttings into the trench with the top

and the middle buds above ground and back fill with soil.

When spring arrives keep them watered and they'll root as

the soil warms.

Dipping the cuttings in a rooting compound might help, but

it's really not necessary. If the ground is frozen in your

garden don't make your cuttings until you get a thaw.

Next week I'll cover why and how to prune grape plants.

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