Climbers add a vertical dimension to the garden that is especially useful in smaller spaces. They also help us 'hiding' ugly features like fences or walls, can be trained over attractive features like pergolas or arches, or can stand alone, trained onto an obelisk. Being specially adapted to cling and twine, climbers are an obvious solution for a vertical surface. They use a large variety of methods to cling on and climb. Some have twining leaf stalks that wind around supports or other plants, others have aerial roots that can burrow into brick and mortar, others still have tendrils, adhesive pads or thorns to help haul themselves upwards.
If you consider to use climbers in your garden then you have to know that there are climbers for any situation. You will find suitable climbers to cover a sunny or a shady wall, some that look good covering a fence or others will show their beauty or arches or pergolas, but remember that they need your help in their first steps. You will need to offer them some anchor points or a wire system. When not supported, their stems spread luxuriantly, adding color, texture and horizontal lines, while some also function as weed-smothering ground cover. When allowed to scramble through other tall plants, climbers can extend the season of interest in your garden.
Beside their help in hiding things that we don't like in our garden, some of the climbers are also flagrant, bearing abundant strongly scented flowers. You can even grow climbers in containers, if your garden is a small one, but they will need some extra attention like regular repotting and feeding and even some severe pruning to the ones that grow fast. Containers are especially suitable for less hardy climbers, the ones that need winter protection and need to be taken indoors or in a heated greenhouse at the onset of autumn frosts.
Climbers may be propagated from seeds, from stem or root cuttings or by layering or even by grafting. Propagation from seeds is the most cost-effective way to produce large quantities of plant, the only method for increasing annuals and the easiest way to propagate herbaceous climbers. Propagation from stem cuttings taken from soft or semi-ripe wood is used to almost all climbers and is the best method to select cultivars. Propagation from hardwood cuttings is normally applied only to vines and root cuttings is used for a small number of plants.
Some climbers produce new plants naturally by self layering. If you don't need a large number of plants then simple and serpentine layering are both straight-forward methods of propagating climbers that are difficult to raise from cuttings.
Actinidia kolomikta, on its common name Variegated kiwi vine, is a species of deciduous, woody, very long-lived, vigorous twining climber, which ultimately grows up to 8-10 meters, with 15 cm heart-shaped leaves which, in mature specimens, have pink and cream variegated tips, which give the appearance of having been dipped in paint, or in some cases a half or more of the leaf may be white and pink, especially where the plant is in a sunny position. An alkaline soil increases the variegation of the leaves.
It bears clusters of 3 fragrant, white flowers in early summer. Some cultivars are self-fertile, but usually male and female plants are needed to produce sweet, grape-sized fruits, in late summer. Female plants produce smooth, ovoid-oblong, yellow-green fruits, while male plants develop the colorful foliage. Best fruit production is achieved in a place with full sun, even the plant tolerates shade. It will grow best in a place with full sun or part shade and fertile, well-drained soil. Provide shelter from strong winds. Grow against a large wall or allow it to climb into a large tree. It is fast growing and makes a good cover on a fence, trellis or arbor. If it will not have a wall or support to climb on, this plant will establish its normal form, which is as an open shrub with arching branches, that usually grows no higher than 5 meters.
If you are going to grow them under glass, grow them in loam-based potting compost, give them full light and water and fertilize freely during the growing season but keep just moist in winter.
Propagate by sowing seeds in containers in a cold frame in spring or fall or root semi-ripe cuttings (or graft cultivars) in late summer.
Asarina scandens, on its common name known as Figwort or Climbing Snapdragon, because of its flowers that are very similar to the snapdragon flowers, is a half-hardy perennial vine grown as an annual in colder areas. In mild climates, Climbing Snapdragon will remain evergreen and in cold climates will die down in winter and re-shoot the following spring. The vine can reach 2-3 m in height if will have a support to climb on, like a fence or trellises. It is also an excellent choice to grow as a ground cover or in a hanging baskets. It is grown for its stunning trumpet-shaped, blue, violet, pink, red or white flowers, with speckled white chins, that appear from summer until autumn frost. In colder areas it can be grown as a houseplant or in a cold greenhouse or conservatory, where will often bloom until the end of the year unless there is a hard frost.
It prefers fertile, well-drained, sandy soil and a place in full sun or partial shade. If grown in containers make sure there is a good drainage and moderate moisture. Removing spent flowers and seedpods will prolong the flowering season.
Propagation is easy by sowing seeds in early spring at 16 Celsius degrees (61 F), 10-12 weeks before last frost date, or if you live in warmer areas you can let it self-sows. Flowering usually starts within 3 months from sowing. You can also try to propagate Climbing Snapdragon by root tip cuttings in summer.
Campsis radicans, on its common name trumpet creeper or trumpet vine is a hardy perennial, deciduous, self-clinging, fast growing climber that will grow to heights up to 12 m. It will quickly cover fences and other structures so it suitable for pergolas, south walls and fences that you need to cover fast. It is best used in woodland gardens and natural areas where it has enough space to grow. It is grown for its showy, spectacular and exotic trumpet-shaped flowers that vary in color from red to orange and bright yellow. Flowers appear in mid to late summer and are grouped in terminal clusters of 4-12 flowers. They are attractive to bees, butterflies and birds. This vine is well adapted to temperate climates, and gives a tropical touch to any garden when in full bloom.
Well known cultivars are: Atropurpurea - scarlet flowers, Praecox - scarlet flowers, Crimson Trumpet - deep red flowers, Flava - yellow flowers, Minor - smaller, orange and scarlet flowers, Speciosa - more shrubby, deep orange red flowers.
They prefer a well-drained, rich, moist soil, with plenty of compost added and a sheltered place in full sun or partial shade, but they are adaptable to less than those optimal situations, thriving in a fairly large range of soils. It can withstand occasional drought periods once established. Provide to the young plants something to climb on and tie them in during their early stages of growth.
You can propagate trumpet vine by softwood or hardwood cuttings, by simple layering, air layering or serpentine layering or from seeds sown directly outdoors in fall or stratify if sowing indoors. To collect the seeds allow pods to dry on plant and then break open the pods to collect seeds. Gather ripe capsules when they turn brown but before they dry too much and split open. Clean them and store them in dry place until sown.
ClematisClematis are suitable to grow in any garden and any climate and will thrive in any rich, fertile and well-drained soil, especially if it is neutral or slightly alkaline. Of all climbers, clematis offer the longest flowering period as they have species of hybrids that bloom in almost every month of the year. Some of them also have nice flowerheads that will show interest even after their flowering period is finished.
Their flower color present a large range, from ivory to golden, white, pink, red and even variegated combinations. The shape of their flowers is also diverse and complex. They will enjoy a place in part shade or in sun, as long as their roots are cool and shaded. They can even be grown in containers.
If you will plant a clematis to clothe trellis or pergolas make sure that the support structure is strong enough to stand the weight of a vigorous clematis. If your clematis grow through other host plants is important to match the vigor of the clematis with the host plant.
Clematis may be divided into three main groups according to their flowering time and habit. The first group includes early-flowering species and their cultivars and Alpina, Macropetala and Montana groups, which flower directly from the previous season's ripened stems. The second group includes early, large-flowered cultivars which bloom on short, current season's stems that arise from the previous season's ripe wood. The third group includes late-flowering species, late, large-flowered cultivars and herbaceous types which flower on the current season's growth.
When planting a clematis make sure you plant it about 5 cm deeper than normal to encourage basal buds to develop below soil level. So, if by any chance the stems are damaged the plant will be able to grow again from below soil level. Keep newly planted specimens well watered until established and mulch climbing and herbaceous species annually in spring with garden compost or well-rotted manure. The evergreens clematis and species such as Clematis tangutica and Clematis orientalis should not be grown in soil that that lies wet during the winter as they have fine, fibrous root systems that quickly rot.
If you want to propagate clematis you can sow seeds in autumn and overwinter in a cold greenhouse or frame. Cultivars do not come true from seeds so to propagate them use softwood or semi-ripe cuttings taken in spring or by layering. For herbaceous types use division or basal cuttings. Softwood or semi-ripe cuttings are taken in spring just above a node, then trim the stem to 2.5-5 cm below node. Remove one of the pair of leaves 1 cm away from the node then reduce the remaining leaf area by half and cut the stem above the node back to approx 1 cm. Treat the base with hormone rooting powder and root in a closed propagating case with bottom heat. Harden off the new plants gradually before planting them out in spring.
Cobaea scandens, known on its common name as Cathedral Bells or Cup and Saucer Vine is a perennial vine, often grown as annual because is too tender to survive frost in winter. It can grow up to 6 m tall and 2 m spread. In colder areas it may be grown in a large pot and kept outdoors in summer. It will behave as a perennial if you bring and keep it indoors over winter at about 7 Celsius degrees (45 F). If grown in a pot in a cool greenhouse or conservatory it needs good watering and protection against glasshouse red spider mite. In very mild winters it may survive and remain virtually evergreen, but is usually grown as an annual climber on a wall, fence or pergola. For a good development this vine will need a place in full sun and a moist but well-drained soil, with regular watering.
It is grown for its sweetly scented flowers. The cups are usually lavender, blue or white trumpets, surround by a saucer or collar of green. The flowers appear form mid summer to mid autumn. This plant has a tropical appearance because of its lush foliage and flowers with prominent stamens.
Propagate this vine by sowing seeds. Even if it will flower in the same year after sowing, it takes a while to start blooming, so it helps to start them early, in late winter or early spring. Sow seeds individually in small pots in seed compost, each seed set on its edge and thinly covered with more compost or perlite, at 18-24 Celsius degrees (65-75F). Keep soil damp but not wet, sealing in a polythene bag to retain moisture and put in a windowsill propagator. Germination takes from 21 days to a month.
When seedlings are large enough to handle they should be moved to larger pots. Give each of them a stake, so that the young stems have something around which to twine. Grow them on in cooler conditions, keeping them well watered. Harden them off for 10-15 days and plant them out in the garden when all danger of frost is past. Place them against a sturdy trellis or close to a south-facing wall or fence. For summer flowering indoors, transplant them into 20-23 cm pots, and keep the atmosphere fairly humid.
Honeysuckle
Lonicera, on its common name Honeysuckle, are easy to grow, vigorous, heat-tolerant and nearly indestructible vines, with a fast growing rate that can grow more than 9 m in length. There are many varieties of Honeysuckle and the most common use of this plant is to grow along a trellis, fence, or other framework, but it can also be grown as a groundcover or used for erosion control. It grows quickly on a trellis or fence, to provide a sweetly-fragrant screen for privacy or shade. Many honeysuckles will thrive in containers as well.
Honeysuckle blooms throughout the entire growing season, from late spring to late summer so is certainly a standout performer in your garden the warmer months. The attractive flowers start out white and age to yellow in their second day of life. They are extremely fragrant, plentiful and produce much nectar. The fragrant flowers transform any garden into an overnight success. The flowers are hermaphrodite - has both male and female organs - and are pollinated by Moths. The flashy and fragrant flowers will attract bees, hummingbirds and butterflies all summer long. After flowering, honeysuckle will produce fruits that are blue-black berries of about 0.6 cm in diameter that are relished by many kinds of song birds. If you will grow honeysuckle on a trellis or an arbor, put the support in place before planting, to avoid damaging the vine, then plant the honeysuckle 15-30 cm away from the support to allow enough growing room for developing stems. The vines should be tied to their support using strong, stretchy materials that won't cut into growing branches. Honeysuckle may become invasive if it is not pruned back hard in winter to prevent the build-up of woody growth. You should avoid planting it near shrubs or small trees, which it may climb and strangle. When the plant has finished blooming, you can prune it for maintaining it in shape, but only lightly prune plants until they are well established at about 2 years old. When it becomes overgrown, cut it to the ground and it will grow back quickly.
Honeysuckle prefers a place in full sun, but will also tolerate partial sun, and even some light, afternoon shade if you can’t find it a place in full sun in your garden. It grows quite well in full shade also, but it won't flower as much. Once established, it needs only moderate watering, unless the summer is very dry. If you prepare properly the planting area and mulch well before planting, the honeysuckle will develop well with a light annual application of a balanced fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season and another one in the middle of the blooming season.
Honeysuckle is evergreen in warm climates and deciduous in cold areas. The foliage can be damaged in severe wind-chill conditions, but being hardy plants to about -20 Celsius degrees (-4 F), they usually recover in the spring, once the warm weather returns. It persists well after the native flora has gone dormant for the winter.
You should plant honeysuckle in early spring, as soon as frost danger has passed. Prepare the planting site as for any perennial then water the plant thoroughly and repeat soakings until the plant start to show signs of new growth. Mulch the plant with heavy cover of leaves, to protect the roots from freezing and to conserve moisture in the hot summer days.
Honeysuckle can be grown from seeds planted as soon as they ripe in a cold frame. Stored seed will require cold stratification for several weeks. When seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for at least their first winter, then plant them out into their permanent place in late spring or early summer, after the last frosts.
Honeysuckle can also be propagate by layering done in autumn. Fill a pot with potting medium, cram a section of young vine into the pot, so that the part of the vine still attached to the mother plant comes in on one side of the pot, and the tip extends out the other side. Water occasionally and in a couple of months the potted section of vine will have roots, then you can cut it from the mother plant.
You can also propagate honeysuckle from cuttings of half-ripe wood, 7-10 cm long, with or without a heel, taken in summer or from cuttings of mature wood of the current season's growth, 15-20 cm long, with or without a heel, taken in late autumn, in a cold frame. Strip the leaves from the end of the cutting nearest the cut end so you will have one or two leaf nodes bare and one or two sets of leaves left on the vine. For a better result you can dip the plant in rooting hormone and place in damp potting or rooting soil.
Ivy
Hedera helix, also known as Ivy, Common Ivy or English Ivy, is a very ornamental, hardy - tolerates temperatures down to about -25 Celsius degrees (-13 F), evergreen climber growing up to 20-30 m tall and 5 m wide. It is widely cultivated as an ornamental plant that can easily grow on any vertical surfaces, but also as ground cover where there are no vertical surfaces. It bears flowers from late summer to late autumn, individually small, in 3-5 cm diameter umbels, greenish-yellow and very rich in nectar, an important food source for late bees and other insects. The flowers are hermaphrodite and are followed by fruits - small black berries that are ripening in late winter and are an important food for many birds. There are many varieties of Ivy with different leaf shapes, sizes, and colors, including variegated. The variegated forms are less hardy than the species and also require more light. Some cultivars were developed for tolerance to sunny conditions. This plant brings so many benefits to any garden: can be grown as a ground cover beneath large trees or to cover bald spots where grass won’t grow, or to give a gentle uniformity to a difficult landscape; grown over arbors, trellises or fences to achieve a fast coverage; the clinging root-like structures allow it to grow up perfectly on flat walls as well where it is of benefit rather than harm because it keeps the wall dry and acts as an insulation. It also can be grown in containers to create a mobile wall or in hanging baskets for a nice curtain effect. It is a very good plant for wild-life because it provides dense shelter for birds and an abundant late supply of nectar for insects and a supply of seeds for winter food. It is a food plant for the larvae of many species of butterfly. It can be grown as topiary forms, creating ivy rings, globes, heart shapes and almost any shape that can be defined by a wire. It is one of the longest lasting elements of greenery in floral arrangements because it roots easily in water and wilt very slow.
Ivy is a very easy to grow plant that tolerates a wide variety of soils except waterlogged, very dry or very acid ones. It grows best in rich, moist soil. Grows well in any place from full sun to deep shade but even it tolerates very dense shade, it may not flower in such a position. The plant is very hardy and tolerant of atmospheric pollution. Established plants are drought tolerant.
Propagation can be done in may ways: cuttings of half-ripe wood in mid to late summer in a shady position in a frame; cuttings of mature wood, 12 cm long, in late autumn in a cold frame; layering - plants often do this naturally and roots by itself anywhere vine touches the ground. It can also be propagate by seeds: remove the flesh, which inhibits germination and sow the seeds in spring in a cold frame. A period of four weeks cold stratification will improve germination. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into individual pots and grow them on in the cold frame for their first winter then plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts.
Passiflora
Passiflora, also known as Granadilla or Passion flower is a mostly evergreen climber with exotic flowers. Perfect as a garden flower, Passion flowers are a joy to grow in any flower garden if you live in a warmer area or in a greenhouse or conservatory if you live in frost-prone area, a delight to look at and smell, easy to cultivate and an absolute joy to watch growing throughout the gardens cycle.
Passion flowers are considered to be hardy climbers, some species may survive temperatures down to 0 Celsius degrees (32 F) if the wood has been well ripened in summer, but they should be planted in a protected place and mulched heavily if you are in a area with severe cold winters. Passion flowers can be difficult to overwinter because their roots are prone to rot if kept cold and wet. Established plants have a better chance of overwintering than very young ones. In the garden, Passion flowers can stand short periods of frost but if long periods of frost are expected than a little heat may be needed to prevent the roots becoming frozen. The top growth is usually killed back by frost, but it will pop back to life in the next spring. In the conservatory or greenhouse it is better to put a little heat around the roots of tender plants than to raise the air temperature, which only encourages the already stressed plants to photosynthesis, putting added strain on the root system and causing the leave to dehydrate and wither.
Passion flowers are easy to grow. They need a place with partial to full sun, and will adapt to most well-drained soils. During the growing period, the soil should be kept moist, but with good drainage, this will ensure a good flowering and growth. Beginning in late august, let them dry out a bit between two waterings but never completely. Apply a balanced fertilizer from early spring and then again 6 to 8 weeks later.
Passion flowers should be planted in early spring. They will benefit by the addition of compost into the planting hole. If grown in pots, use a loam-based potting soil and keep it slightly pot-bound. Passion vines tend to flower more freely when confined. Top dressing rather than repotting is sometimes advised and this should be done annually in spring. Repot Passion flowers every 2 years in late winter or early spring, always allowing the plant to recuperate for a week in a cool shady area before putting it back out in a sunny location. Prune Passion flower vines at about 15 cm from the soil level or to 6-8 buds, in early spring, and a few weeks prior to repotting. This should encourage flowering on the new growth.
Passion flowers can be propagated by softwood cuttings of fully mature wood in early summer. Cuttings will take 3 months or longer to root. They can also be grown from seed sown in spring. Seeds will germinate in a seed compost of any type, at 13-18 Celsius degrees (55-64 F). Germination may take up to a year. It is better to keep the young plants indoors until the following spring, and then plant them outside in their permanent place. You can also use the layering method in spring or autumn.
Passion flowers also make excellent container grown plants for indoor, grown in bright light, but never in full sun, is best suited to a sunny room or a greenhouse. Ideally, it should have 4 hours of bright, direct sunlight daily throughout the year. However, it may sun scorch in summer if placed too close to a south or west window. The plant may be taken outside during the summer.
Even they enjoy bright light, they prefer lower temperatures around 12.7-18.8 Celsius degrees, especially in winter. They will tolerate slightly warmer temperatures in summer but this may cause infestation with spider mites and will loose their attractive shape. Cooler temperatures in winter, around 10 Celsius degrees, will allow them a rest period.
Plants make rapid annual growth each year as this clings with tendrils, plants won't damage brickwork or fences but they need suitable supports to grow on so it is better if possible to plant it next to a chain link fence or on a trellis. Passion flowers bloom from mid to late summer and after a warm summer it is possible to form large orange-yellow fruits. Those can be left on the plants for decoration. Even they are edible they do not have a special flavor.
