ORGANIC IS A BROAD TERM..WE WILL ATTEMPT TO DEFINE ORGANIC AND SOME OF THE WAYS YOU CAN INTRODUCE ORGANICS TO YOUR LANDSCAPE AND GARDENS...
WE WELCOME YOUR COMMENTS AND TIPS..
Organic, the word organic when used to describe a fruit or vegetable is quite the enigma. They say it takes 7 years for a patch of earth to be considered organic. How many of us have waited 7 years to plant our so called home grown organic fruits and vegetable in our back yard.
When you think about the patch of soil in your back yard, if you live on Long Island, chances are that it was a potato farm. When you think about the farms on long Island, almost all originally were farmed for potatoes. The amount of fertilizer and pesticides used to grow potatoes is higher than the average to grow most any vegetable or fruit per acre.
With that in mind, I find it hard to believe there are any true organic products being grown or for sale here on Long Island.They say that pesticides do not break down in a hot compost pile, let alone a cold compost heap. So our grass clippings that are mostly treated with pesticides and put into commercial or a home compost pile will result in a non organic compost and should not be used to produce an organic crop.
There are compost pellets available that are fired in a kiln. Are they organic? Chances are that the commercial compost we buy in most garden centers that maybe labeled organic or we may think is organic might really not be organic? It is very hard to find the truth about what is organic.
Compost when used commercially to grow organic fruits or vegetables does not contain enough nutrients to maximize the production of a specific crop. Therefore, it is not feasible to use compost to grow commercial crops. The amounts of compost you would have to apply would be well beyond 25 tons per acre which would have to be applied more than once and would most likely exceed the profit per crop.
New techniques focus on timing the applications of fertilizer to a specific crop using several applications instead of one application which would reduce run off and increase crop productivity.These techniques are being researched as I write this article.
Consider the farmer who announces that they do not use any pesticides on their farms. Their crops are all grown organically using compost. There are community farms and co ops that practice organic farming. You have to ask yourself what is organic farming and can it be done firstly without waiting 7 years to free the soil of a history of pesticides. Secondly what are the ingredients of the compost being used? Organic farming is a complicated issue.
Watering your crops is another consideration. Is the water organic? One thing that distinguishes long island crops is they are all under irrigation. Where is the water coming from? Most farmers irrigate with well water. Is the well water tested for pesticides? Are there traces of pesticide in the water? Is rain water free of pesticides? Is the water we get from our local water company free of pesticides?
The next time you purchase something that says grown organically or is organic, you might consider what you are really getting and what you are paying for.
One way to grow organic, may be to practice container gardening. Container gardening would allow you to control your growing conditions. First you would have to know where your growing medium comes from, and what the ingredients are.
Most gardeners would agree a good growing medium for vegetables or fruits would be 1/3 each, peat moss, vermiculite, pine bark, and a few tablespoons of lime. You might amend that with some compost, soil, or fertilizer and maybe a few tablespoons of phosphate. There are many home recipes for growing mediums and most contain little or no soil.
THERE ARE MANY PRACTICES FOR DESIGN AND MAINTENANCE OF ECOLOGICAL LANDSCAPES. RIGHT PLAN, RIGHT PLACE...ORGANIC LAND CARE DEPENDS UPON THE PRINCIPLES OF ECOLOGY AND SUSTAINABILITY FOR LONG-TERM HEALTH OF PLANTS..YOU TREAT THE SOIL NOT THE PLANT.
Organic horticulture is the science and art of growing fruits, vegetables, flowers, or ornamental plants by following the essential principles of organic agriculture in soil building and conservation, pest management, and heirloom variety preservation.Vermicompost, Mulches, cover crops, compost, manures, and mineral supplements are soil-building mainstays that distinguish this type of farming from its commercial counterpart. wikipedia.
WHERE DO I START...PLANNING..ANALYSIS OF YOUR SITE:SOIL PH, PAY ATTENTION TO MICROCLIMATES (ENVIRONMENTAL NICHES);EVALUATE AVAILABLE SUNLIGHT;DEGREES OF SHADE;SOIL ANALYSIS;WIND PATTERNS;AIR CIRCULATION;TEMPERATURE;CONDITIONS OF EXISTING PLANTS; SITE TERRAIN AND MOISTURE CHARACTERISTICS. SELECT AND PLACE PLANTS THAT HAVE CHARACTERISTICS APPROPRIATE TO YOUR SITE. LEAVE NATIVE ECOSYSTEMS INTACT(EXCEPT WHERE INVASIVE OR HARMFUL PLANTS EXIST. SELECT AND USE NATIVE PLANTS. TRY NOT TO USE PLANTS THAT REQUIRE EXTRAORDINARY EFFORTS TO KEEP ALIVE. DESIGN AND MAINTAIN EDIBLE LANDSCAPES. PROTECT,MAINTAIN AND ENHANCE EXISTING WILDLIFE HABITAT CREATE BUFFERS TO PROTECT YOUR ORGANIC SITES FROM NEIGHBORING NON-ORGANIC SITES. USE WIND BRAKES WHEN NEEDED. CREATE A GARDEN JOURNAL PLANNING IS THE KEY TO A SUCCESSFUL LANDSCAPE.PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ABOVE ITEMS, EVALUATE EACH ITEM ON YOUR CHECK LIST, THAT IS SPECIFIC TO YOUR SITE. EXAMPLE SOIL:AIR IS THE ESSENTIAL COMPONENT OF SOIL AND IS A REQUIREMENT FOR HEALTHY ROOT GROWTH. IDEAL SOIL SHOULD CONTAIN 5% HUMUS, 45% MINERAL, 25% AIR AND 25% WATER.THIS SOIL IS EASY TO GROW PLANTS IN, IT HOLDS MOISTURE, MINIMIZES EROSION AND PROVIDES AIR TO AEROBIC MICROORGANISMS AND ROOTS OF PLANTS. A SOIL TEST WILL PROVIDE YOU WITH THE INFORMATION YOU NEED TO ADD THE RIGHT AMENDMENTS TO CREATE YOUR IDEAL SOIL. WHAT IS NEXT ON YOUR LIST?
THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO DEAL WITH PEST...(SEE INSECTS BUTTON) IPM (INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT),GROWING DEGREE DAYS,AND SCOUTING FOR SIGNS OF PESTS...ARE THE THREE BASIC WAYS YOU CAN BEGIN TO MANAGE YOUR GARDEN ENVIORMENT. LOOK AND READ ALL LABELS CAREFULLY WHEN LOOKING FOR ALTERNATIVE PEST CONTROL..REMEMBER..LESS THAN 1% OF INSECTS ARE BAD GUYS..WHEN YOU SPRAY PESTICIDES YOU ARE ALSO SPRAYING THE OTHER 99% OF THE GOOD GUYS...
Alternative Pest Mangement Series Neem...A Natural Insecticide... What is it? Neem is the common name of Azadiracta indica A. Juss., a tree native to South Asia and a member of the mahogany family (Meliaceae). The insecticidal properties of neem were discovered long ago and for centuries have been relied upon for pest protection in India. Neem derives some of its insecticidal properties from a family of complex secondary compounds in seed extracts known as limonoid triterpenes, the most important of which is azadirachtin. Other components of neem extracts are insecticidal as well, such as neem oil which contains almost no azadirachtin or other limonoid triterpenes. Some chemicals in neem extract are also toxic to nematodes, snails, crustaceans, and a number of fungi. Because the active ingredients in neem have very complex molecular structures, it is not feasible to manufacture them. Thus, all neem products on the market are based on extracts of the neem tree. Because azadirachtin is the predominant insecticidal chemical in the extract, extracts are standardized to this compound so that consistent commercial insecticides can be marketed. What types of neem-containing products are on the market and how do they work? There are several very different types of pesticides made from neem. The types of products, intended uses, and modes of action include: Azadirachtin-based insecticides. These products contain a broad range of limonoid triterpenes with azadirachtin listed as the primary active ingredient. These are the only neem products that contain significant amounts of azadirachtin, the most potent of the neem-derived insecticides. Azadirachtin is most effective as an insect growth regulator, inhibiting the molting process of immature insects. Azadirachtin has no growth regulatory activity against adult stages, but does possess repellent activity, deterring some insects from feeding or laying eggs on treated plants. Other chronic effects include reduced fecundity and longevity as well as increased development time of immature insects. Azadirachtin content varies with the formulation; concentrates sold for commercial application typically contain 0.15 to 4.5% azadirachtin, whereas products intended for homeowner usage range from 0.05 to 0.2%. When diluted, however, the concentration of azadirachtin in the finished spray is similar, in the range of 0.001 to 0.01%, usually 0.002%. Although few products are labeled for this kind of use, neem extracts are also taken up from the soil by some plants. Systemic activity of neem is generally longer lasting than when applied as foliar sprays because the active ingredients are not as susceptible to degradation by sunlight or loss to rainfall. Neem oil. Another group of neem products is made from the oil fraction of neem extract. The active ingredient is generally listed as “clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil,” and is labeled as a fungicide, insecticide, and/or miticide. Insects and mites susceptible to paraffinic (petroleum-derived) horticultural oil are likely to be controlled to some extent by neem oil products. The mode of action is probably similar to other oils, namely membrane or cuticle Every effort has been made to provide correct, complete, and up-to-date pesticide recommendations. Nevertheless, changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly, and human errors are still possible. These recommendations are not a substitute for pesticide labeling. Please read the label before applying any pesticide. The information given herein is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Cornell Cooperative Extension is implied. This document is a product of the Landscape Horticulture Program Work Team at Cornell University. Primary contributors include Paul Weston, Department of Entomology and Dan Gilrein, Cornell Cooperative Extension, Suffolk County. Prepared June, 2007 disruption and/or interference with respiration. Note that the activity is distinct from that of azadiractin-based insecticides. Other neem products. In addition to products based on azadirachtin or neem oil, there are also other pesticides derived from neem. One such product, K+ Neem, is an insecticidal soap made from neem oil, listed on the label as potassium salts of fatty acids. Mode of action (membrane disruption) and efficacy against arthropods is probably similar to that of other insecticidal soaps since the product has no measurable quantities of azadirachtin. What does neem control? Although neem has a fairly broad spectrum of activity against insects, some insects are more susceptible than others, and results often vary from pest to pest. Many leaf-feeding larvae are susceptible to azadirachtin-based products; this list includes lepidopterous larvae (caterpillars), leaffeeding beetle larvae, and sawflies. [NOTE: we have not seen significant efficacy against viburnum leaf beetle larvae.] Fluid-feeding insects such as aphids, leafhoppers, and plant bugs are also fairly well controlled by products based on azadirachtin, as are dipterous leaf miners and fungus gnats. Adults of a number of insect groups are also responsive to azadirachtin; Japanese beetles and grasshoppers reportedly avoid neem-treated foliage. Neem-oil products are reportedly effective against aphids, whiteflies, scale crawlers, and spider mites. Neem products are generally not effective against mealybugs, weevils, thrips, or adult scales. Use of neem products against pests not on the label is not advisable because efficacy against these pests has not been determined (or is inadequate), not to mention the fact that such uses are illegal in New York. Neem as part of a pest-control program Foliar-applied neem products are generally not very long lasting in the environment, and often need to be reapplied to maintain efficacy. Because of the relatively rapid breakdown, however, neem products pose a reduced threat to non-target organisms. Combined with low mammalian toxicity, this attribute makes neem products well suited to use in landscapes. Caution must be used with neem-oil or –soap based products because of potential phytotoxicity, especially following repeat applications. Owing to their several modes of action, neem products are less likely to promote resistance development in pest populations than most insecticides or miticides, which often rely on a single mode of action. Growth-regulatory effects of neem products are not instantaneous, however, so users must understand that they will not see immediate results when immature insects are the target stage, and must be willing to tolerate additional feeding damage because treated insects will continue to feed (albeit at a reduced rate) before the effects of neem are manifested. In summary, neem-based insecticides have attributes that can be helpful in IPM programs for certain groups of landscape pests. Be sure to read labels carefully to ascertain that a particular product contains the desired active ingredient (azadirachtin, neem oil, potassium salts of fatty acids).
A Natural Insecticide
Bt, or Bacillus thuringiensis, is a useful addition in the arsenal
against plant-eating insects. Bt is a naturally occurring bacteria
that is common all across the world, and early in the twentieth
century it was discovered to be an excellent form of insect control.
Bt became available to home gardeners in the 1950s but in recent
years new strains have been developed that attack an even wider
range of insects.
The kurstaki strain of Bt kills only caterpillars that feed on
leaves and needles. Bt kurstaki is especially useful for eliminating
corn earworms and those little green cabbage worms that like to
infest broccoli, along with tent caterpillars and webworms that
damage trees and shrubs. Because Bt kurstaki will kill most any
type of caterpillar, it should be used sparingly if you have a
butterfly garden or seek to attract more butterflies to your garden.
Another type of Bt, the israelensis strain, will kill the larvae
of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats. This is good news
for those of you who suffer through black fly season each summer!
The san diego strain of Bt is a good choice for controlling the
Colorado potato beetle. Potato beetles can quickly reduce potato
plants to shreds, but Bt san diego stops the larvae in their tracks
before they can do significant damage.
Each strain of Bt is specific to certain pests. Bt israelensis and
san diego will not harm caterpillars, and likewise, Bt kurstaki will
not harm black flies or potato beetles. Bt acts by producing
proteins that react in the gut of the insect, paralyzing their
digestive system. The insects stop eating and quickly starve.
Bt is not harmful to plants, people or pets, although you should
avoid breathing the powder or spray when applying Bt to your plants.
Bt also degrades fairly quickly in sunlight, so it will not persist
in your garden. Some strains persist for less than 24 hours while
others remain viable for about a week.
Ten-year comparison of the influence of organic and conventional crop management practices on the content of flavonoids in tomatoes.
ONE TRUTH ABOUT ORGANICLY GROWN TOMATOES ...
Understanding how environment, crop management, and other factors, particularly soil fertility, influence the composition and quality of food crops is necessary for the production of high-quality nutritious foods. The flavonoid aglycones quercetin and kaempferol were measured in dried tomato samples (Lycopersicon esculentum L. cv. Halley 3155) that had been archived over the period from 1994 to 2004 from the Long-Term Research on Agricultural Systems project (LTRAS) at the University of California-Davis, which began in 1993. Conventional and organic processing tomato production systems are part of the set of systems compared at LTRAS. Comparisons of analyses of archived samples from conventional and organic production systems demonstrated statistically higher levels (P < 0.05) of quercetin and kaempferol aglycones in organic tomatoes. Ten-year mean levels of quercetin and kaempferol in organic tomatoes [115.5 and 63.3 mg g(-1) of dry matter (DM)] were 79 and 97% higher than those in conventional tomatoes (64.6 and 32.06 mg g(-1) of DM), respectively. The levels of flavonoids increased over time in samples from organic treatments, whereas the levels of flavonoids did not vary significantly in conventional treatments. This increase corresponds not only with increasing amounts of soil organic matter accumulating in organic plots but also with reduced manure application rates once soils in the organic systems had reached equilibrium levels of organic matter. Well-quantified changes in tomato nutrients over years in organic farming systems have not been reported previously.
Organic Grasshopper Control
Grasshoppers have been the bain of gardeners for centuries.
These insects are responsible for consuming up to 25% of
the available forage in the western half of the US each
year. That's a lot of food that could have been available
to people and livestock.
A heavy grasshopper infestation can reduce a garden to
stubble in a matter of days. It's important to stop
grasshoppers in their tracks before the population gets
out of control, but for many gardeners it is out of the
question to use chemical pesticides.
Fortunately, there are organic products available that
will kill grasshoppers before they can destroy crops.
These products infect grasshoppers with a naturally
occurring disease that is much like a bad case of
grasshopper flu. The disease is called Nosema locustae
and it infects over 90 species of grasshoppers and also
some crickets. People, pets, plants and other insects
are not affected by this grasshopper disease.
Nosema locustae is offered for sale in gardening catalogs
and garden centers and is sold as Semaspore Bait or NoLo
Bait. These products have a short shelf life, about eight
weeks, so buy only as much as you need. It will keep up to
five months if kept refrigerated.
New National Standards for Organic FoodAs one of his final acts in office, Secretary ofAgriculture, Dan Glickman announced the final national standards for the production, handling and processing of organically grown agriculture products. The announcement was made on December 20, 2000.Essentially, the new organic standard offers a national definition for the term "organic." It details the methods, practices and substances that can be used in producing and handling organic crops and livestock, as well as processed products. It establishes clearorganic labeling criteria and specifically prohibits the use of geneticengineering methods, ionizing radiation and sewage sludge forfertilization.All agricultural products labeled organic must originatefrom farms or handling operations certified by a state or privateagency accredited by USDA. Farms and handling operations that sell lessthan $5,000 worth per year of organic agricultural products are exemptfrom certification. Farmers and handlers have 18 months to comply with the national standards. Consumers will begin to see new organic labeling on products in their local grocery stores by this summer, with full implementation by mid-2002.The final national organic standards rule, which takes into consideration over 300,000 public comments, was published in theFederal Register on December 21, 2000. The rules, along with detailedfactsheets and other background information is available on the web at http://www.ams.usda.gov/nopSource: Condensed from USDA News Release, Release No. 04.25.00
GARDENCOACH, JAY WOLSTOFF WAS ISSUED "I'M ORGANICALLY TRAINED" CERIFICATE OF COMPETENCY BY SUFFOLK COUNTY EXECUTIVE'S OFFICE OF CONSUMER AFFAIRS IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PROVISIONS OF SUFFOLK COUNTY LAW.
An organic way to get rid of chicKweed is to spray a mixture of 3 parts water and two parts vinegar, (you can add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap) to help adhire the mixture to the chic weed.TRY NOT TO SPRAY YOUR OTHER PLANTS, AS IT MAY HARM THEM...
THE OLD FASHION WAY TO GET RID OF CHICKWEED IS TO TURN IT OVER OR RIP IT OUT, BEFORE IT FLOWERS.
Given the significant increase in consumer interest in organic food products, there is a need to determine to what extent there is a scientific basis for claims made for organic produce. Studies comparing foods derived from organic and conventional growing systems were assessed for three key areas: nutritional value, sensory quality, and food safety. It is evident from this assessment that there are few well-controlled studies that are capable of making a valid comparison. With the possible exception of nitrate content, there is no strong evidence that organic and conventional foods differ in concentrations of various nutrients. Considerations of the impact of organic growing systems on nutrient bioavailability and nonnutrient components have received little attention and are important directions for future research. While there are reports indicating that organic and conventional fruits and vegetables may differ on a variety of sensory qualities, the findings are inconsistent. In future studies, the possibility that typical organic distribution or harvesting systems may deliver products differing in freshness or maturity should be evaluated. There is no evidence that organic foods may be more susceptible to microbiological contamination than conventional foods. While it is likely that organically grown foods are lower in pesticide residues, there has been very little documentation of residue levels.
Ten-year comparison of the influence of organic and conventional crop management practices on the content of flavonoids in tomatoes.Mitchell AE, Hong YJ, Koh E, Barrett DM, Bryant DE, Denison RF, Kaffka S.Department of Food Science and Technology and Department of Plant Sciences, One Shields Avenue, University of California-Davis, Davis, California 95616, USA. aemitchell@ucdavis.edu
Improving Soil with Greensand, an all natural fertilizer...
Greensand is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined from
ancient sea floor deposits that has been used as a fertilizer
since the 1700s. In the U.S. greensand is found mainly in
Texas, New Jersey and Arkansas. It is completely organic and
safe to handle. It will not harm insects, pets or people and
is so safe it can be scooped up in your hands. Greensand can
be applied to the garden any time, and unlike chemical fertilizers,
it will not burn your plants if applied too heavily.
Now here's the best part: Greensand will help loosen up clay
soils and help bind sandy soils. It also retains water and will
increase the soil's ability to hold moisture. When greensand is
mixed into potting soil, less watering will be required for your
potted plants. Greensand looks much like fine beach sand that
has been tinted green, but it is able to absorb ten times more
moisture than beach sand. The dark green color of greensand is
natural, and the when greensand is applied to the soil surface,
its dark color will help absorb sunlight and help warm the soil
in early spring.
At first glance, greensand may not look like much of a fertilizer.
It has an N-P-K rating of only 0-0-0.1 to 0-0-3 which means it
contains no nitrogen or phosphorus and only a slight amount of
potash. But it is the trace minerals present in greensand that
prove its worth. While plants need only tiny amounts of these
trace elements, they are essential to a plant's growth. Greensand
will provide calcium, manganese, and over thirty more trace
elements for your plants.
An application of greensand will improve the soil and thereby
improve the health of your plants. Greensand will make roses
bloom longer and it will make tomato plants produce tastier fruit.
If your garden soil is heavy with clay or sandy and weak, a dose
of greensand will make it more suitable for your plants.
Whether you buy Jersey greensand, Texas glittergreen greensand
or Arkansas greensand, always check the label for instructions
before applying this amendment to your garden. Application
rates can vary from 5 to 80 pounds per 100 square feet, depending
on the specific needs of the soil.
Greensand can be found at garden centers and in some gardening
catalogs. If your local garden center doesn't offer greensand,
ask them if they can order it in for you. Your garden will
appreciate it.
MILK SPORE AND CASTOR OIL SPRAYS CAN BE USED TO CONTROL GRUBS,VOLES AND MOLES. GO TO YOUR LOCAL AGWAY.
Improve Your Garden Soil with a Cover Crop
Cover crops are fast-growing small grains, grasses or legumes that are generally planted in the fall and tilled under in the spring.
Cover crops are used to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil, prevent erosion, fix nitrogen in the soil, reduce the number of weeds in the garden, and provide habitat for beneficial insects. Your choice of cover crops will depend on the results you want to achieve in your garden.
Cover crops that are tilled in to improve the soil are sometimes referred to as green manure. Legumes such as dwarf white clover, crimson clover, hairy vetch or bell beans will fix nitrogen in the soil while adding organic matter when they are tilled under in the spring.
When fast-growing winter rye is planted in the fall, it quickly covers the ground and crowds out weeds. The roots survive winter cold and the plants begin to grow early in the spring before early weeds have a chance to become established. Tilling under the rye in the spring will increase the organic matter in the soil and leave the garden bed with fewer weeds and ready for planting about three weeks after it is tilled in.
Buckwheat is a cover crop that is planted in summer. Plant buckwheat where an early vegetable crop has already been harvested, or in a spot that has become overwhelmed by weeds. Till the soil before broadcasting the seeds, which quickly germinate and prevent weeds from taking over again. Till under a buckwheat cover crop before the plants go to seed. Buckwheat grows and flowers in only six weeks and it also adds calcium, phosphorus and potassium to the soil.
Cover crops with blossoms, such as hairy vetch, crimson clover or buckwheat will attract beneficial insects to the garden where they will help pollinate your plants and attack damaging insects.
Leaving bare soil in the garden is an open invitation for weeds to come in, but planting a cover crop will help make your garden a private party for your plants.
WE WELCOME YOUR COMMENTS...
THE INFORMATION ON OUR SITE IS MEANT AS A REFERENCE TOOL
THERE ARE MANY PRACTICES FOR DESIGN AND MAINTENANCE 
GARDENCOACH, JAY WOLSTOFF WAS ISSUED "I'M ORGANICALLY TRAINED" CERIFICATE OF COMPETENCY BY SUFFOLK COUNTY EXECUTIVE'S OFFICE OF CONSUMER AFFAIRS IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PROVISIONS OF SUFFOLK COUNTY LAW. 
