Container Gardening Classics:If you love flowers but don't have much space for a garden, don't worry. Containers will come to the rescue! Flower-filled containers will spruce up a deck, patio, entryway or window. Many varieties of annuals are well-suited to container growing. Planted in new self-watering containers, it's easier than ever to create a colorful, cheery, inviting container garden.Plant CombinationsThere are many possible plant combinations available to home gardeners, so let your imagination run wild! In general you'll want cascading plants(spillers) along the edge and taller plants(thrillers) growing in the center of the container. Next you can use fillers to fill on empty areas. The color and texture combinations are a matter of personal choice.
Choose plants with similar light and water requirements for each container. The easiest way is to use a single type of plant. For a bold effect, fill a container with Wave petunias or brilliant red pansies. Or dazzle your eyes with a rainbow of colors, such as a mix of calibrachoa.
Container Plant Combinations;
Jungle Gold’ impatiens — with its yellow, orchid-like flowers — looks great planted with ‘Wizard Golden’ coleus and ‘Tango’ New Guinea impatiens ‘Luna Red’ dwarf hibiscus, which features 8-inch-diameter red flowers, is a good companion to ‘Easy Wave’ white petunias The large, white-flowered ‘Abunda Giant White’ bacopa combines well with yellow-orange ‘Sunny’ thunbergia and red-flowered ‘Lucky’ lantana
Some compelling container combo options: Blue bacopa, silver helichrysum, and red salvia. Lemon lime nicotiana with blue scaevola Lavender pentas with white ivy geranium Purple alternanthera with raspberry trailing verbena.
Containers allow you to garden where you don't have good quality soil or space. Use containers specifically designed for gardening or adapted from some other use. If not too large, containers are mobile, letting one rearrange garden spaces to highlight different plants at dif- ferent times. Most annuals, and many perennials and woody plants can be grown in containers. Your choices need to endure a confined root space, periods of dryness between waterings, and, for perennials, wider ranging winter soil tem- peratures. Many gardeners find containers ideal for annuals, because of easy repor- ring, or use containers for tropical plants, because of easy relocation for winter pro- tection.
When you select containers, you'll want to make sure they have drainage holes or your plants will flood with each rainstorm. Using a soil-less potting mix will give you lighter-weight containers, bur also ones that dry our quickly. Many gardeners mix in bagged topsoil to help retain moisture and reduce watering. Container gardening requires a close watch on moisture levels as containers will dry out much faster than an in- ground bed. Self-watering containers and drip irrigaton sysytems are available.
Some natives plants to try in containers are-American alumroot (Heuchera americana - many cultivars to choose from), rall white beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis), Jacob's ladder (Polemonium sp.), blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium.), green and gold (Chrysogonum virginianum), golden ragwort (Senecio aureusi, creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera), Christmas fern (Polystichum acrosticoides) and native perennial stalwarts such as rudbeckia, sol- idago, coreopsis and echinacea. Other good perennials for containers include creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), ched- dar pinks (Dianthus gratianopolitanus 'Firewirch'), whirling butterflies (Gaura linheimerz), and variegated Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum). Annuals, like verbena (Verbena 'Homestead Purple'), wishbone flower (Torenia fournierz) and pansy (Viola x wittrockiana) compliment perennials and tropicals. Small native shrubs like Virginia sweetspire (Itea vir- ginica), smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), curleaf staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina 'Laciniara') and sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) or grape holly (Mahonia bealex) can serve as a center- piece in a large planter.
Click on myLinks button on the left hand side to download "Your Guide to Container Gardening" power point presentation.
Growing and Caring for Peonies
Peonies are a lovely, old-fashioned perennial that will add beauty
and heavenly scent to your garden for many years. If you're
looking for a flowering plant that grows well in containers and the deer
won't eat, peonies are an excellent choice.
Peonies will grow in much of the US but they do require a period
of dormancy, and most varieties won't survive in growing zones
of 9-10 and higher.
Plant peonies in the late summer to early fall, at least six weeks
before the ground typically freezes in your area. Choose the
location for your peonies carefully. Once they are established,
peony plants do not like to be disturbed. Plant them in a location
where they will receive at least 6-8 hours of full sunlight daily
during the growing season. Peonies won't grow well in wet soil or
clay, but a raised bed will help avoid these problems.
When planting peonies, dig a hole about 15 inches deep and wide
enough to comfortably accommodate the roots. Be very careful to
not plant your peonies too deeply. The tops of the pointed, red
budding shoots should be an inch or two above the soil surface.
Individual plants should be spaced about three feet apart.
Peonies will begin to bloom anywhere from one to three years after
they are planted, depending on the variety. The heavy blooms tend
to flop over, especially after a rainfall, so you may want to stake
your peony plants. An easy method of staking peonies is to set
four stakes in the ground around the plant, then lace heavy twine
back and forth from stake to stake to form a twine grid for the
stems to grow through. You can also buy metal supports for
peonies at garden centers.
To make your peony produce even larger blossoms, leave only one of
the large round buds on each stem, pinching off the smaller buds
early in their development. Cut off older blooms as they begin to
fade but do not cut back the foliage until after a hard freeze. To
avoid fungal diseases, the clippings should not be added to compost.
Drought tolerant annuals to use in your containers.
Alternanthera
Calibrachoa,traing petunia
Euphorbia, diamond frost
Geraniums
Helichrysum
Lantana
Annual phlox intensia
Sedum
Portulaca grandiflora moss rose
Verbena
Above list from umass,
Shop for Trees & Shrubs By: Patt KasaWhen I go to a nursery to buy a tree or shrub, I'm looking for a plant that will make steady progress and endure, not one that will cling to life for a season or two then have to be replaced.
Years of experience have helped me hone my detective skills and I've developed an almost fool-proof method of choosing the healthiest specimens for my landscape. You can become a savvy shopper, too, by following these same guidelines.Signs of HealthThe shape of a plant is an indication of its health. The branching should be balanced on all sides of the plant and the foliage should be full. Make sure upright trees, such as pine and spruce, have a trunk with a healthy tip (leader). If the leader is dead, it's hard to grow a straight tree, though you can encourage a new leader by training a top branch vertically.
Look for good foliage color. It should be uniform throughout the plant, except for new growth. Yellow color or brown edges or tips indicate root damage from improper watering or fertilizing. If whole branches droop, the plant may be dry, over-fertilized or over-exposed to sunlight.
A sure sign of good health is new growth. Look among the plant's branches for soft, green tissue with tiny new leaves. The new stems should all be the same thickness and the new leaves should be about the same size and spaced at equal distances along the branches. If some of the leaves are smaller or farther apart, or if the stems are spindly, the plant is probably not receiving adequate care.What Roots SayNurseries sell trees and shrubs in containers or balled-and-burlapped (their roots and a small amount of soil are wrapped in burlap and tied). Balled-and-burlapped plants are grown in the ground and are usually lifted every year and root-pruned. When it's time for them to be sold, they are dug up with a good amount of earth attached to the roots and wrapped in burlap. Because of the annual root-pruning, balled-and-burlapped plants develop a compact root system with lots of feeder roots. They aren't root-bound, so they're more likely to transplant successfully than root-bound container-grown plants. However, the labor involved in annual digging and root-pruning makes balled-and-burlapped plants more expensive.
Container-grown trees and shrubs have one potential advantage –- their roots are protected by a container and are less likely to be injured or broken when the plant is moved. And, when the plant outgrows its container, the entire root ball is dropped into a larger container, resulting in less trauma to the roots. As long as container-grown plants are transplanted into larger pots as required, they'll develop strong, healthy root systems. If they don't receive adequate care, they'll develop too many roots for the size of the container and become root-bound. When roots twist around themselves, they can strangle the plant. The best way to check if a plant is root-bound is to gently slide it out of its container. The roots should fill the container without being crowded, and the root ball should remain intact after being unpotted: Blue bacopa, silver helichrysum, and red salvia. Lemon lime nicotiana with blue scaevola Lavender pentas with white ivy geranium Purple alternanthera with raspberry trailing verbena
Container Basics When choosing containers, the most important feature is good drainage; excess water can lead to root rot. Look for containers with large drainage holes and be sure to drain saucers after watering. In general, the bigger the pot, the less watering and care it will need. In addition to the traditional clay and plastic containers, you'll find an exciting array of colorful ceramic pots in an assortment of shapes and sizes. If the pot you love doesn't have drainage holes, place a smaller plastic container inside, propped up on gravel. Be sure to drain the ceramic pot after watering. Self-watering containers are also an option.Keys to Container Care:Keep soil in pots moist, saturating the soil ball when watering, then drain off the excess. Fertilize with time-release pellets and/or use a water soluble fertilizer when watering. Remove old, faded flowers and pinch back stems to encourage more flowering. Keep containers weeded and control insects and diseases as needed.
Seasonal Care Fill containers with a soilless potting mix, rather than using garden soil, and mix in some slow-release fertilizer pellets, according to package instructions. For an immediate full effect in your container, place plants close together. Keep containers well watered through the growing season with a hose, drip irrigation system or by using a self-watering container. Add additional nutrients throughout the growing season by mixing a water-soluble fertilizer into your watering can every week or two, following package instructions.
The beauty of most annuals is that they never stop flowering. However, if individual plants in a container become tired-looking, cut them back. They'll regrow and begin flowering again. If the plants are beyond rejuvenation, spruce up the planters with replacement annuals, choosing similar plants and colors to complement the remaining flowers. Or remove the whole planting and start a new container with a different theme. Experiment with colors and texture combinations to create a personalized and intriguing container garden.
Shop for Trees & ShrubsBy: Patt KasaWhen I go to a nursery to buy a tree or shrub, I'm looking for a plant that will make steady progress and endure, not one that will cling to life for a season or two then have to be replaced.
Years of experience have helped me hone my detective skills and I've developed an almost fool-proof method of choosing the healthiest specimens for my landscape. You can become a savvy shopper, too, by following these same guidelines.Signs of HealthThe shape of a plant is an indication of its health. The branching should be balanced on all sides of the plant and the foliage should be full. Make sure upright trees, such as pine and spruce, have a trunk with a healthy tip (leader). If the leader is dead, it's hard to grow a straight tree, though you can encourage a new leader by training a top branch vertically.
Look for good foliage color. It should be uniform throughout the plant, except for new growth. Yellow color or brown edges or tips indicate root damage from improper watering or fertilizing. If whole branches droop, the plant may be dry, over-fertilized or over-exposed to sunlight.
A sure sign of good health is new growth. Look among the plant's branches for soft, green tissue with tiny new leaves. The new stems should all be the same thickness and the new leaves should be about the same size and spaced at equal distances along the branches. If some of the leaves are smaller or farther apart, or if the stems are spindly, the plant is probably not receiving adequate care.What Roots SayNurseries sell trees and shrubs in containers or balled-and-burlapped (their roots and a small amount of soil are wrapped in burlap and tied). Balled-and-burlapped plants are grown in the ground and are usually lifted every year and root-pruned. When it's time for them to be sold, they are dug up with a good amount of earth attached to the roots and wrapped in burlap. Because of the annual root-pruning, balled-and-burlapped plants develop a compact root system with lots of feeder roots. They aren't root-bound, so they're more likely to transplant successfully than root-bound container-grown plants. However, the labor involved in annual digging and root-pruning makes balled-and-burlapped plants more expensive.
Container-grown trees and shrubs have one potential advantage –- their roots are protected by a container and are less likely to be injured or broken when the plant is moved. And, when the plant outgrows its container, the entire root ball is dropped into a larger container, resulting in less trauma to the roots. As long as container-grown plants are transplanted into larger pots as required, they'll develop strong, healthy root systems. If they don't receive adequate care, they'll develop too many roots for the size of the container and become root-bound. When roots twist around themselves, they can strangle the plant. The best way to check if a plant is root-bound is to gently slide it out of its container. The roots should fill the container without being crowded, and the root ball should remain intact after being unpotted
EDIBLE PLANTS! CONTAINER OR LANDSCAPE....
I've done a little sleuthing and have come up with my top-20 picks of new varieties worth a try in your (and my) garden this summer. I've included a source for each variety with the description. See if any of these pique your interest and let me know if there are any special new varieties you're trying this year. Enjoy!
'Battito Hybrid' tomato — This pear-shaped, 12-ounce, red, ribbed indeterminate tomato looks and tastes like an heirloom, but produces like a hybrid. It can be eaten fresh or made into sauce, has excellent disease resistance, and matures 80 days from transplanting.
Park Seed 'Big Golden Star' hawthorne — (Crataegus pinnatifida major) Unlike the common hawthorne, this Chinese variety doesn't produce thorns and has 1- to 2-inch diameter edible fruits. The crabapple-sized haws are good candied or in syrups. The 20- to 30-foot tall tree has brilliant red fall foliage, making it an excellent edible landscape plant in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9.
Raintree Nursery 'Blondie' pea — While I usually lean toward more colorful vegetables, this new pea really caught my eye. 'Blondie' features light green leaves and pale green English pods and seeds. The flavor is sweet and succulent. This variety matures 65 days from seeding and requires trellising. Park Seed 'Golden Streaks' mustard — This deeply serrated mustard features citron green leaves and a mild, sweet taste. It matures 45 days after seeding. Johnny's Selected Seed
Broccoli and kale are two of my favorite vegetables. 'Purple Peacock' broccoli is a colorful combination of both.
'Hansel Hybrid' eggplant — NGA trialed this All America Selection winner in our test gardens last summer, and we loved it. The attractive 2-foot-tall plant produced abundant clusters of finger-sized, purple eggplants 55 days after transplanting. They were tasty roasted individually or sautéed with other veggies. Territorial Seed 'Japanese Black Trifele' tomato — This potato-leaved, Russian heirloom produces 6-ounce, pear-shaped, jet-black fruits 74 days after transplanting. The meaty fruits have a complex flavor and are one of the blackest colored tomatoes available.
Johnny's Selected Seed 'Lil Pumkemon Hybrid' pumpkin — These 1- to 2-pound mini-pumpkins mature 100 days from seeding and produce unusual cream-colored fruits with orange stripes. They can be used for decorations or stuffed and baked.
Park Seed 'Mottistone' lettuce — This summer-crisp, Batavian-type loose-leaf lettuce features green leaves with red speckling. It's as beautiful as it is tasty and matures 55 days from seeding. Johnny's Selected Seed 'Pearl' cucumber — While many of the varieties I'm mentioning are more colorful than normal, this cucumber goes in the opposite direction, featuring meringue white fruits with white spines. It produces fruit 65 days from seeding and is more productive than other pale-colored cucumber varieties.
Territorial Seed 'Pesto Perpetuo' basil — This 1- to 2-foot basil features unique variegated leaves (green fringed with white). It has the same flavor as Greek basil and is good for making pesto
. Nichols Garden Nursery 'Pulverulenta' elderberry — (Sambucus nigra) This European variety features the same growth characteristics as the common elderberry but has mottled green leaves with white stripes. Hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9. Raintree Nursery 'Sweet Lace' grape makes a decorative container plant and also produces white table grapes in September. 'Purple mizuna' greens — I've grown mizuna for years and enjoy their piquant flavor and quick growth. Mizuna can mature one month after seeding. This new variety adds a little purple coloring to its already attractive leaves.
Johnny's Selected Seed 'Purple Peacock' broccoli — This cross between 'Green Goliath' broccoli and two different kale varieties features a small, loose broccoli head on a plant that's totally edible. This variety has a purple stem and head, and produces abundant side shoots. It matures 70 days from seeding. Territorial Seed 'Red Popper' pepper —
Peppers are naturally attractive, but this new mini-bell pepper takes the prize. The 1- to 2-inch diameter fruits are red, sweet, delicious, and early, ripening 55 days after transplanting. Plus, the fruits hang on the plants like Chinese lanterns making them beautiful, as well.
Burpee Seed 'Red Veined' sorrel — Sorrel is one of those wild greens that has undergone a revival recently. This new variety features red veins in the traditional light green leaves. The flavor is sharp and tangy, so it's best mixed with milder greens in salads. Sorrel is ready to eat 55 days from seeding.
Johnny's Selected Seed 'Sweet Lace' grape — This ideal patio variety has attractive, green, cut leaves all summer and produces white grapes in September. It grows well in containers and can be trellised on a fence or wall. Hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. Stark Brothers
'Hansel' eggplant produces clusters of finger-sized fruits on beautiful 2-foot-tall plants. They're great grilled or roasted. '
Tom Thumb Black Velvet' nasturtium— This dwarf nasturtium features deep maroon flowers that are stunning to look at, yet still have a characteristic peppery flavor.
Nichols Garden Nursery 'Touchstone Gold Hybrid' beet — While yellow beets are not necessarily new, this one is touted by many as the best for its bright yellow flesh, orange skin, and good production. Matures 55 days after seeding. Territorial Seed 'Violetta Hybrid' pak choi —
Here's a new look for a standard Chinese green. 'Violetta' features the same growth habit as green pak choi, but has purple-tinged leaves instead. Not only are the purple leaves attractive, they are higher in nutrients than green varieties.
Park Seed 'Zlata' radish — This unusual, plum-shaped radish features golden-yellow skin and sweet white flesh. It matures 30 days after seeding. Territorial Seed..Thank You Charlie Nardoozi
Unique Planters for Your Plants
One thing that most gardeners have in common is that they can
never have too many plants. There's always one more plant in
the garden center that catches your eye and begs to come home
with you. But that can lead to the problem of where to plant it.
If you've run out of space in your flowerbeds and all of your
flowerpots are already occupied, think outside the pot and give
your plant a fun and unique planter. There are many common
household items that can easily be converted into planters with
a little imagination and the addition of a drainage hole or two.
Old shoes make great planters for small plants. If you're a
hiker and you've worn out another pair of hiking boots, don't
toss them out. Just drill a couple holes in the soles and fill
the boots with potting mix. Leather boots will last for years
as planters and give new life to your comfy old boots. Just
about any old shoe can be a home for small plants, even baby
shoes. Baby shoes are particularly cute when planted with
hens n' chicks or some thyme.
If you have some old bricks lying around, they can be stacked
into a box shape and filled with soil for an instant brick
planter. A child's wagon can be a lovely planter for several
plants, or fill the basket on an old bicycle with trailing plants
and park it in the midst of a flowerbed.
Old wheelbarrows, wooden crates, washtubs, and all sorts of
baskets make great planters too. It's fun to incorporate something
from a favorite hobby or collection as a planter too. If you love
to cook, how about using a worn-out pan to plant some culinary
herbs. If you work in the medical field, an old bedpan might make
a humorous planter and a conversation piece in your garden.
Prospective planters that have too many gaps in them, such as a
wire egg basket, can be lined with moss before adding soil.
Look around your house for interesting objects that can be used
as planters for small plants next spring. Flea markets and
garage sales are also good places to find treasure that can be
converted to planters. With a little imagination, you can have
a beautiful and unique garden of potted plants.
TO VIEW OUR POWER POINT PRESENTATION ON CONTAINERS, GO TO LINKS BUTTON AND CLICK ON YOUR GUIDE TO CONTAINER GARDENING. IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME TO DOWNLOAD BE PATIENT.
TO FIND OUT HOW TO START YOUR OWN CONTAINER GARDEN, REQUEST OUR FREE CONTAINER GARDEN CLIENT SURVEY FORM, BY E MAIL OR FAX..
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