Home
ABOUT US
COACHES
InstructorTOPICS
gardenCLINICS
Organic Services
PHOTOS 4 SALE
GIFT CARDS
CornellGardeners
Master Gardeners
GARDENSCHOOL
COMPOSTING
Clean up NOTES
PLANT IDEAS
COMPANIONplants
CONTAINERS
Daylilies
DEER resistant
FRUIT
GOURDS
GLOSSARY
Indoorplants
INSECTS&Disease
L.I.NativePlants
ORGANIC
Rock Gardens
ROSES
SEASHORE Plants
SHADE PLANTS
THEME GARDENS
TroughGardens
Vegetables
VINES
WHAT IS IT?
WEEDS
WINTERPLANTS
XEROSCAPE
FOR SALE
GardenClubs
GARDENNEWZ
myLINKS
lectureNOTES
HyperspectralImaging
CONTACT US
GARDENmatchers
COOKING IDEAS
Garden Photos
DesignShowhouse
MS.LAUREL
2008gardentour
   
 


Scroll down for a list of Diseases to look for in your vegetable garden.


The words bug and insect are interchangeable, and refer to those six-legged creatures you see everywhere. However, in the scientific community, the two terms do have different meanings. The word bug refers to a specific subgroup of insects classified as "true bugs" which have a feeding tube instead of chewing mouthparts. Examples of true bugs are the shield and assassin bugs.

The green shield bug is one of the most common bugs in the garden


Nearly 3000 species of assassin bugs exist  These insects can be commonly found throughout most of the world. They vary in size from a few millimeters to as much as 3 or 4 centimeters. They come in many colors and shapes and most species have two pairs of wings. However, ALL assassin bugs have a powerful, curved rostrum, or beak, that they use to pierce and suck out the tissues of their prey.



Dragonflies come in a variety of shapes and sizes, with New York State having approximately 120 different dragonfly species. All have relatively long, slender bodies with two pairs of approximately equal-length wings. They are often seen near water, but are good fliers and will fly long distances. Of the various dragonfly groups, skimmers are slightly shorter-bodied and are the ones you most commonly see around ponds and marshes. Damselflies are delicate-bodied with very slender abdomens. Darners are our largest dragonflies, reaching over 3 inches in length. All dragonflies are predators, known for their aerial acrobatics. Often referred to as a mosquito hawk, a single dragonfly is able to consume as many as 100 mosquitoes in a day. Dragonflies do not sting, but larger adults can bite if handled carelessly. Lightningbug A type of beetle, lightningbugs (or fireflies) are a favorite of kids who enjoy watching these rather small insects put on a unique, dazzling night display of blinking lights each spring and early summer. Firefly adults use this bioluminescence to find mates and each species has its own distinct flashing pattern. Lightningbug larvae look like little alligators, and eat snails and slugs. One genus of lightningbugs will mimic the courtship flash of another genus of smaller lightningbugs in order to attract and then eat them. Grasshopper New York is home to numerous grasshopper species, including various short-horned species (the type most commonly seen), and katydids. A familiar summer sight, grasshoppers are easily recognized by their large, conspicuous, powerful hind legs that they use for jumping. They are excellent fliers, sometimes traveling long distances. Adult male grasshoppers make a buzzing sound by rubbing their wings together, and are often heard "singing" in fields and farmland. While some species will eat and damage farm crops, grasshoppers provide an important food source for many bird species, as well as other insecteating animals. Monarch Butterfly With a distinct orange and black wing pattern, the monarch is perhaps the best known of our butterflies. Large, strong fliers, they are often seen feeding on flowers or flying leisurely in open areas. Monarchs migrate thousands of miles, frequently stopping in the same rest spots each year. Millions migrate south each fall, with females returning each spring or early summer, laying their eggs along the way. These new generations replace the old, continuing the northward trek. Birds and other predators avoid eating monarchs because they are toxic; the caterpillars feed on milkweeds, storing toxic chemicals from the plant. June Bug Also called May beetles, these relatively large, stout beetles are most often encountered in May and June, buzzing around lights or banging against screens and windows. Adults graze on the foliage of shrubs and trees. The larval stage of this beetle, known as a grub, feeds on the roots of grasses and other plants, remaining in the soil for up to three years. Moles and skunks will sometimes dig up entire lawns searching for these grubs to eat. Ladybug Also known as ladybird beetles, ladybugs are often brightly colored, relatively small beetles that are generally a favorite of children. The nine-spotted ladybug is New York State’s official insect. Ladybugs are highly regarded as one of our most beneficial insects because they feed on pest aphids, with adult ladybugs consuming as much as 100 aphids a day. There are a few species of ladybugs (such as the Mexican bean beetle) that are herbivores. Adult ladybugs frequently overwinter in groups, sometimes indoors where they will congregate at windows in spring and fall. Because of their beneficial qualities, several different species of ladybugs—including the European seven-spotted ladybug, and the Halloween bug or many-spotted ladybug—have been introduced into New York since the 1940s as a method of aphid control. Unfortunately, many native ladybugs (such as the nine-spotted) are now rarities because of these exotic introductions. Hornworm The larval form of various species of sphinx moths, hornworms get their name from the "horn" on the back end of the body. Large, plump, hairless caterpillars, they will rear up when threatened. They are voracious feeders and can quickly strip a plant of all its leaves. Two species, the tomato and potato hornworms, migrate into New York State each summer, sometimes damaging crops. Tomato hornworm moths have coiled tongues that can extend many inches, enabling them to reach the nectar of long-tube flowers, pollinating the plants in the process. Although many people think a hornworm can sting with its horn, this is not true. n.y.s.dept. of the enviorment
Tomato hornworms can grow as large as 5 inches long. Found throughout the United States, these large, fat caterpillars feed voraciously on the leaves and fruits of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes. Adults are rather spectacular sphinx moths: grayish-brown with orange spots on the body and a 4- to 5-inch wing span. After overwintering in the soil in 2-inch brown spindle-shaped pupal cases, moths emerge in late spring to early summer to lay greenish-yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves. Caterpillars feed for about a month, then enter the soil to pupate. There is one generation per year in the North;2-5 in the south.

Simple Slug Trap
Costs Just Pennies 


 If slugs have beheaded your prize marigold
or reduced your lettuce seedlings to stumps,
either gardeners know how you feel.

Have you battled slugs in your backyard
for years, tried several common methods ...
including hunting them down with a salt
shaker and using traps made of jar lids filled
with beer?

All of these methods seem to be time-
consuming at best. Helmut Brodka of
Renton, Washington found the ultimate
weapon against slugs; he calls it the "slug-o-
matic".

The contraption is easy to make, mess-free
and costs pennies. The only materials are an
empty 2-liter soft drink bottle, a few staples
and slug bait purchased from a garden center.

To make one yourself, cut the top third off
the empty bottle. Drop a spoonful of slug bait 
 into the bottom of the bottle; push the
top portion into the body of the bottle
as illustrated on overleaf. Put enough
staples around the rim to hold the parts
together (three should do). This design
also keeps the poisonous slug bait
away from kids and pets.

 

It won't take long for the slugs to
find their way into the bottle. However,
it's difficult for them to find their way
out. And most of them will perish from
the bait in the meantime.

 

Use your bottle for several weeks,
then toss it and make a new one. "It's
clean, and it works - guaranteed,"


Helpful Insects for Your Garden



Have you seen any baby ladybugs in your garden?



They may be on your plants right now, quietly working away for

you in a miniature drama as they rid your plants of aphids,

spider mites and other small insects. Adult ladybugs also

dine on insects, but it's their young - the larvae - that are

the most voracious killers.



Adult ladybugs will seek out plants that are infected with

aphids and they'll lay clusters of tiny yellow eggs on the

plant. Within a few days the tiny ladybug larvae hatch and

begin hunting for food.



Ladybug larvae look much like tiny black alligators with orange

stripes or spots on their backs. When they first hatch, they

are no larger than this comma , but they grow quickly and

aggressively search for food.



Recently I noticed a heavy aphid population on the new growth

of a Rose of Sharon shrub. I also noticed some ladybugs on

the plant, so instead of spraying the plant I decided to watch

Nature take its course. Soon I observed many ladybug larvae

busily scouring the plant and within a week there were no more

aphids. These little guys do a great job!



There are other beneficial insects that will help you keep a

healthy garden. It's important to recognize these good insects

so they aren't inadvertently destroyed. Many of them have the

appearance of being harmful, but they really aren't...unless

you're an aphid.

For more information about benifical insects go to:


 

What are those tiny white specs all over my plants?

Many plants are prone to being attacked by Euonymus

Scale. You know your plants have scale, or more

specifically Euonymus Scale when you see little white

specs on the underside of the leaves, and up and down the stems.

At first this scale doesn't show much damage to the plant,

but after a period of time the plants become stunted and

just perform poorly. To the point of becoming an eyesore

in your landscape.

The little white specs that you see are actually a protective armor that these scale insects build to protect themselves. Really it's a bunker of sorts. The scale insects live under the bunker, sucking the nutrients out of the plants leaves and stems.

Because of the protective bunker they are difficult to control or eradicate. In most cases I just tell people to dig out the

plants and throw them away if the infestation is very heavy

at all.

Evaluating Control

The success or failure of control efforts may not be readily apparent but here are some things to check. Live scales should produce a liquid when mashed, dead scales will be dry and not "bleed" when crushed. New foliage should have a healthier appearance once the scale burden has been removed. Buds should break a little earlier than when the plant was infested and expanded leaves should have normal color and turgor.

 Natural Enemies

Scale insects can be attacked by a variety of lady beetles, predatory mites, and small parasitic wasps. Lady beetle adults and larvae can be seen but mites and parasitic wasps are very difficult to see. You can conserve natural enemies by using insecticidal soaps and oils which have limited impact on beneficial species in comparison to other control alternatives. 


Representative products for scale crawler control.


Insecticide common name*Representative brand names
Acephate                        Orthene Turf, Tree & Ornamental Spray
                                     Ortho Systemic Insect Killer
Azadiractin Bon-Neem
                                       Gordon's Garden Guard Liquid Insecticide
Carbaryl Sevin 
Cyfluthrin Bayer Advanced Garden Multi-Insect                                             Killer Concentrate
Lambda-cyhalothrin Spectracide® Triazicide® Soil & Turf Insect Killer
Dimethoate Dragon Cygon 2E Systemic Insecticide
Esfenvalerate Ortho Bug-B-Gon Garden & Landscape Insect Killer Concentrate
Malathion Ortho Mosquito-B-Gon Tree & Shrub Spray
Bonide Malathion Insect Control
Permethrin Ortho Mosquito-B-Gon Tree, Shrub & Lawn Spray
Spectracide® Bug Stop® Multi-Purpose Insect Control Concentrate
Bonide Borer-Miner Killer
*All insecticides have unique common names that can be found just below the brand name on the product label. You may be able to find other brand name products for scale control that contain these active ingredients. Be sure that the product you select is labeled for the plants that you intend to spray.


 Keeping plants as healthy as possible without hurting our environment is very important. Try these homemade remedies.

Remedies for Outdoor Plants
Beer trap
Use: To catch and kill slugs.

How to make: Take a Ball jar and bury it in the soil so that its mouth is at the same level, or only slightly above the level of the soil.

How to apply: Fill the jar with beer (preferably dark ale) up to approximately 1/2 to 1 inch from the top of the jar.

Why it works: Slugs are attracted to beer, so if the trap is properly set up the slugs will come for the beer and get stuck in the ball jar.

Eggs and water
Use: To repel deer.

How to make: Combine four eggs with a quart of water. Mix together in blender.

How to apply: Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and spray onto plants that you want to protect from deer.

Why it works: Deer do not like the odor of eggs.

Egg shells
Use: To control blossom end rot.

How to make: Take the shells of four eggs and crush them.

How to apply: Mix these shells into the soil around each plant.

Why it works: The calcium in egg shells will dissolve slowly into the soil where it will be taken up by the plant's roots.

Milk and water
Use: To control black spot on roses.


How to make: Add 1 cup of milk to two cups of water.

How to apply: Spray mixture directly onto rose leaves with a handheld spray bottle to protect them from black spot.

Why it works: No one knows exactly why milk helps control certain plant diseases, but milk does contain lactoferrin, a protein that has been shown to help control diseases in animals.

Bagging fruit
Use: To control insects and diseases attacking a variety of fruit such as apples, peaches, and many others.

How to make: Gather a Ziploc sandwich bag (big enough for the fully grown fruit to fit in comfortably), a stapler, and a pair of scissors.

How to apply: Staple the mouth of the Ziploc bag around the fruit when the fruit is about the size of a quarter. Then cut off one of the lower corners of the bag to allow any water that might collect to drain.

Why it works: The barrier that the bag creates is too great for most insects and disease to overcome.

Remedies for Indoor Plants
Hot peppers
Use: To control many insects including aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites.

How to make: Take a cup of the hottest peppers you can find and mix in a blender with two cups of water.

How to apply: Carefully place the resulting mixture into a spray bottle and spray it on the leaves of the plants while being careful not to spray yourself. At first treat only one plant or even just a few leaves; wait two days to see whether the spray injured them.

Why it works: Insects don't like the "hot" in hot peppers (capsaicin), so it repels them.

Dish soap
Use: To control many insects including aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites.

How to make: Add 1 tablespoon of dish soap to 1/2 gallon of water.

How to apply: Place the soapy water into a spray bottle and mist the plants with it. At first treat only one plant or even just a few leaves and then wait two days to see whether the spray injured them.

Why it works: Dish soap dissolves the outer waxy layer that all insects are covered with. This causes the insect to dry out and die. Plus, by adding baking soda to the above dish soap remedy, you can treat powdery mildew.

Isopropyl alcohol
Use: To control many insects including scale, mealy bugs, and spider mites.

How to make: Take a cotton swab and soak it with alcohol.

How to apply: Wipe the cotton swab over the affected area of the leaf. At first treat only one plant or even just a few leaves; wait two days to see whether the alcohol injured them.

Why it works: The alcohol does essentially the same thing that dish soap does -- dissolve the outer waxy layer that all insects are covered with, causing the insect to dry out and die.

Oh Gnats!

How to Deal With Fungus Gnats



Fungus gnats are tiny flying insects that can be a problem for

houseplants and greenhouse plants. Fungus gnats are not just

annoying as they fly around your plants, they can also do

some serious damage to your plants.



Fungus gnats are mosquito-like insects, about an eighth of an

inch long with one pair of transparent wings. The adults will

scatter and fly about when the host plant is disturbed, which

is often the first sign of an infestation.



It is the fungus gnat larvae that do the most damage. The

adults live about a week, but during that time they lay

hundreds of eggs in the soil of your potted plants. They

particularly like damp soil that is rich in organic matter. The

eggs hatch in 4-6 days and for about two weeks the larvae

feed on plant roots and root hairs in the soil. This can

weaken the plants, causing leaves to suddenly wilt or turn

yellow. Plants may drop their leaves in severe infestations.



If you see fungus gnats flying around your plants, you can be

sure there are also larvae feeding on the roots. To monitor

the fungus gnat population, use yellow sticky traps placed

horizontally near the plants. Yellow sticky traps are available

at many garden centers. You can also place inch-long pieces

of raw potato on the soil surface. If fungus gnat larvae are in

the soil, they will migrate to the potato within four hours to

begin feeding. Look for the thread-like, white and shiny

larva with black heads under and on the potato piece.



Once you know your plants have fungus gnats, the adults can

be killed with any insecticide spray labeled for gnats or flying

insects. Treating the larvae in the soil is another matter. A

soil drench is most effective in killing the larvae. There are

organic products available specifically for killing fungus gnat

larvae, including a form of Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis Berliner

var. israelensis). Gnatrol is the brand name of one form of Bt

for fungus gnats. There are also parasitic nematodes that

attack fungus gnat larvae, although this is more useful for

large-scale plantings. Neem oil is also effective against

fungus gnats.

A  Natural Insecticide



Bt, or Bacillus thuringiensis, is a useful addition in the arsenal

against plant-eating insects. Bt is a naturally occurring bacteria

that is common all across the world, and early in the twentieth

century it was discovered to be an excellent form of insect control.



Bt became available to home gardeners in the 1950s but in recent

years new strains have been developed that attack an even wider

range of insects.



The kurstaki strain of Bt kills only caterpillars that feed on

leaves and needles. Bt kurstaki is especially useful for eliminating

corn earworms and those little green cabbage worms that like to

infest broccoli, along with tent caterpillars and webworms that

damage trees and shrubs. Because Bt kurstaki will kill most any

type of caterpillar, it should be used sparingly if you have a

butterfly garden or seek to attract more butterflies to your garden.



Another type of Bt, the israelensis strain, will kill the larvae

of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats. This is good news

for those of you who suffer through black fly season each summer!



The san diego strain of Bt is a good choice for controlling the

Colorado potato beetle. Potato beetles can quickly reduce potato

plants to shreds, but Bt san diego stops the larvae in their tracks

before they can do significant damage.



Each strain of Bt is specific to certain pests. Bt israelensis and

san diego will not harm caterpillars, and likewise, Bt kurstaki will

not harm black flies or potato beetles. Bt acts by producing

proteins that react in the gut of the insect, paralyzing their

digestive system. The insects stop eating and quickly starve.



Bt is not harmful to plants, people or pets, although you should

avoid breathing the powder or spray when applying Bt to your plants.

Bt also degrades fairly quickly in sunlight, so it will not persist

in your garden. Some strains persist for less than 24 hours while

others remain viable for about a week.

Other Natural Insecticides  can be found in our Organics section.


Diseases
In The Home
That Can Occur in your Vegetable Garden

Margaret T. Mcgrath, LIHREC, Cornell University.

Air Pollution (ozone) - (Most susceptible = beans, cucurbits, potatoes, tomatoes)
Symptoms: Leaves - white or brown spots, bronzing, bleaching.

Virus Diseases

Symptoms: Leaves - mosaic pattern, ringspots, malformed. Fruit - ringspots, color-breaking.
Management: Destroy affected plants.

Root Rot (various fungi)

Root Knot and Root Lesion (nematodes)
Dodder (parasitic higher plant)

Beans

Anthracnose (fungus)

Symptoms: Pods - black, sunken spots with salmon-ooze when moist.
Source: Crop debris, seed, spores spread by wind or rain.

Management: Rotate, treat seed, mulch, fungicides, destroy plant debris.
Bacterial Blights (bacteria)

Symptoms: Leaves - brown spots often with yellow halo. Pods-
water-soaked spots, become brown, sometimes sticky.

Source: Crop debris, seed, bacteria spread by rain.

Management: Rotate, copper fungicides, avoid dispersing bacteria with water or
by handling plants, destroy plant debris.

White Mold (fungus)

Symptoms: Pods + stems - water-soaked spots; white cottony growth with black 'peas'.
Source: sclerotia (black 'peas'), spores spread by wind or rain.

Management: Long rotation, minimize leaf wetness, fungicides, destroy plant debris.

Corn
Smut (fungus)

Symptoms: Fleshy galls on ears, leaves, stems and tassels.
Source: Soil, wind-blown spores; injury promotes.
Management: Remove galls before they open, rotate.

Crucifers (broccoli, cabbage, caulitlower)

Black Rot (bacterium)

Symptoms: Yellow, wedge-shaped spots at leaf margins.

            Source: Seed, crop debris.            Spread: Splashing water

Managernent: Hot-water-treated seed, resistant varieties, water at base of plant, work
when plants are dry.

Soft Rot (bacterium)

Symptoms: Brown rotting tissue often with foul odor.
Source: Soil.

Management: A void injury, water at base of plant, cut broccoli at angle.

Cucurbits (cucumber, melons, squash, pumpkin)
Bacterial Wilt (bacterium)

Symptoms: Wilt-starts with leaf spots; then leaves, vines, plant.
Source: Cucumber beetles.

\lanagemcnt: Control beetles.

Downy Mildew (fungus)

Symptoms: Yellow to brown spots on leaves, often angular, dark-grayish, fuzzy fungal growth
lower surface, affected tissue killed quickly.

Source: Wind-blown spores, infected transplants.

Management: Resistant varieties (little control for new strain), fungicides, cover plants.

Powdery Mildew (fungus)

Symptoms: White, powdery spots on leaves, petioles and stems.
Source: Wind-blown spores.

Management: Resistant varieties, fungicides, control weeds.

Phytophthora Blight and Fruit Rotrfungus)

Symptoms: Seedling death (uncommon). Large, brown leaf spots. Plant collapse. Soft decay at
crown or on vine. Death of growing tip (summer squash). White yeasty growth on rotting fruit.

Pythium Fruit Rot (fungus)

Symptoms: White cottony growth on rotting fruit.

Source: Soil, infested surface water, spores moved in storms.
Management: Manage soil moisture.

Choanephora Fruit Rot (fungus)·

Symptoms: gray cottony growth; looks like black-capped pins.

Lettuce

Soft Rot (see crucifer section)

Peppers

Bacterial Leaf Spot (bacterium)

Symptoms: Small brown spots on leaves and fruit; leaves fall off.

            Source: Seed, crop debris.           Spread: Splashing water

Management: Hot-water-treated seed, resistant varieties, water at base of plant (keep
leaves dry), work when plants are dry, copper fungicides.

Blossom End Rot (abiotic)

Symptoms: Brown to black area at blossom end, depressed, leathery.
Cause: Calcium deficiency due to moisture fluctuations or excess nitrogen.
Management: Adequate moisture and nutrients; avoid root pruning.

Phytophthora Blight (see cucurbit section)

Sunscald (abiotic)

Symptoms: White area on fruit part facing sun; soft, wrinkled, then papery.
Cause: Fruit exposed to intense sunlight due to insufficient leaves.
Management: Control leaf diseases.

Soft Rot of Fruit (bacterium)

Management: Avoid injury. Control insects.

Tomatoes

Anthracnose (fungus; not the fungus causing anthracnose of bean)

Symptoms: Round, sunken spots on ripe fruit; turns black from center out. Entire
fruit often rots.

Source: Crop debris, soil, seed, weeds (nightshade, velvetleaf).

Management: Rotate, treat seed, mulch, control weeds, fungicides, destroy plant debris.

Blossom End Rot (see pepper section)

Catface (abiotic)

Symptoms: Malformation and scarring of fruit, usually blossom end.
Cause: Cool temperatures early in fruit development.

Management: Protect young plants from cool temperatures.

Late Blight (fungus) (occurs infrequently but devastating)

Symptoms: Leaves - large, irregular, green to gray spots that turn brown; white mold on
undersurface. Fruit - firm, large, irregular, brown/green spots with greasy, rough look; sharply
defined margin.

Source: Infected transplants and potato tubers, wind-blown spores.

Management: Inspect tomatoes, potatoes + petunias routinely, fungicides, destroy affected plants.

Buckeye Rot (fungus)

Symptoms: Fruit - gray/green or brown large spot; becomes dark, firm leathery rot; concentric
rings; smooth, undefined margin.

Source: Soil

Management: Rotate, mulch, stake' plants, manage water, fungicides.

Early Blight (fungus)

Symptoms: Leaves -sI11all, circular, dark brown spots with concentric rings and yellow border.

Fruit - dark, leathery, sunken spots.

Source: Seed, debris, infected transplants, weeds, wind-blown spores.

Management: Rotate, treat seed, mulch, control weeds, fungicides, destroy plant debris.

Septo ria Leaf Spot (fungus)

Symptoms: Leaves - small, circular spots; gray with dark border; tiny
black specks on gray part.

Source: Seed, debris, infected transplants, weeds.

Management: Rotate, treat seed, mulch, control weeds, fungicides, avoid dispersing spores with
water or by handling plants, destroy plant debris.

Bacterial Speck, Bacterial Spot and Bacterial Canker (bacteria)

Symptoms: Speck & Spot: Leaves - small, dark circular spots. Fruit - small, black spots. Canker:

Wilt. Leaves - margins brown and yellow. Fruit - corky spots. Stems - spots.

Source: Seed, debris, infected transplants.

Management: Treat seed, copper fungicides, avoid dispersing bacteria with water or by handling
plants, destroy plant debris.

Wilts (fungi: Fusarium, Verticillium; bacteria)

Symptoms: Leaves - turn yellow, die, old ones first. Stems - brown inside.
Source: Infected transplants, soil, planting materials.

Management: Destroy affected plants.

General Tips on Identifying Plant Diseases

Margaret Tuttle McGrath

Department of Plant Pathology, Cornell University


I.        Look for symptoms on rest of plant. Don't just focus on first symptoms seen.

a.        Examine leaves (young and old; both surfaces), stems, flowers, fruit, and growing points.

b.        If affected plants are wilted, look at roots and cut open stems (including below ground
portion) to see if there is discoloration anywhere. Location (xylem vs phloem) and extent
of discolorationijust at crown vs extending up stem) can be important for diagnosis Is
plant completely wilted or just one side of plant or leaves.

c.        Are affected plants stunted?

2.        Look at distribution of symptoms on plant.

a. Are leaf symptoms mostly on old leaves, young leaves, or evenly distributed')

3.        Look at distribution of affected plants in field.

a.        Arc affected plants in groups') In a low area

b.        Are other plants (e.g. weeds) also affected? Abiotic factors such as lightning, herbicides,
and nutrient deficiency/toxicity often affect multiply plant species.

4.        Look for signs of the pathogen. A hand lens will be helpful.
a. Are spores present? Sclerotia? Fruiting bodies?

Make detailed notes about symptoms. Take digital photographs if possible. Put plant samples in
plastic bag, don't expose to excessive heat (e.g. closed vehicle) or cold (e.g. refrigerator) before
they are examined more closely. Signs of the pathogen may appear when affected tissue is
incubated in a plastic bag with damp paper towel for 12 to 24 hours.

Japanese Beetles Eating Your Plants, Skunks and

Moles Digging Up Your Lawn

It's Japanese Beetle season, Oh Boy!

Japanese Beetles are a serious pest that eat many of

the plants in your landscape. Okay, so they don't eat the entire plant, but they do skeletonize the leaves on your plants. In zone 5 they usually hatch around the end of June.

Warmer climates earlier.

Once they hatch the females release a pheromone to

attract males and the mating begins. The cycle goes

like this: Eat, mate, lay eggs in your lawn, eat, mate lay more eggs. Each adult female will lay around 50 eggs in your lawn.

Not only do the adult beetles eat up the plants in your landscape, but the larva (grubs) eat the roots off your lawn grasses. Then along come skunks and moles that dig up your lawn because they like to eat the grubs.

Many people use Japanese Beetle traps for control, but in

many cases the traps do more harm than good because they attract more beetles to your yard who in turn attract more

beetles via the mating game.

Besides traps you can use a chemical spray to control

them, or you can use organic measures to control the larva

in the soil.




BEWARE THE DANGEROUS BROWN RECLUSE SPIDER!!! THE MOST DANGEROUS SPIDER IN THE U.S.A.

BITE FROM BROWN RECLUSE SPIDER CAN BE 100 TIMES WORSE THAN THIS. THEY SAY THIS SPIDER IS FOUND AS FAR NORTH AS NEW JERSEY...