I have been worried that I might have killed my plant my friend gave me for my birthday (a pink potted calla lilly). I wonder if I gave it too much water? Or my apt is very warm and maybe that is why? I'm trying to get my landlord to fix the heat situation but that is another story (as long as my orchid lives I'll be ok). Anyways, so I'm trying to figure out if I'm killing this plant and or what I can do to help it.
Hi Alexandra,
I grow calla lilies outside in large pots but they also make good house plants.They are finicky!! (Like you I live in zone 7) I take them out of the soil, in November after the first frost and store them in a box (with peat moss or in a brown paper bag)with no light for the winter months in the garage. I replant them inside in late april and plant them outside around mother's day. I have had the same calla lilies for over 8 years now. They multiply each year.
The reason yours do not look so good is because they need to take a nap!!!
They need to nap for 60-90 days…
Right now-(Feb 10) I would suggest you take the tubers out of the soil and let them air dry for several days, then put them in a brown paper bag .and put them in a cool area like a garage or un heated . basement. Then, in late april take them out of the bag and re plant them inside.
..
these are photo of calla lily tubers…
Below are basic instructions for re planting your calla lilies inside or outside.
welcome to the world of plants!!!.
1. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; calla tubers must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Keep in mind the mature size of the varieties you have chosen and plan your container sizes accordingly.
2. Site containers where they will receive full sun or bright filtered light.
3. Plant the callas shallowly, so the tops of the tubers are exposed. Look for the sides of the tubers that appears to have the most "eyes" or growing points, which appear much like the eyes on a potato. Plant the tubers with the eyes facing up.
4. After planting, water your callas generously, soaking the soil. Roots and sprouts will form quickly in warm soil. (If the soil is still quite cool, wait until it warms before planting.)
5. When in bloom, feel free to cut calla lily flowers for bouquets. This will not hurt the plants and having graceful, long lasting blooms to bring indoors is one of the best reasons to grow callas.
6. After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight and provide nourishment for next year's show. Water as needed. Leaves may be removed when they yellow. (In cold areas, to save your calla tubers for next year, dig them after the first frost. Let the tubers air dry for several days. Then store in a cool location in paper bags or cardboard boxes filled with peat moss.)
7. Your callas will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
They should be kept in a sunny location at a constant temperature of approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The soil should be kept evenly moist, and during periods of new growth a water soluble fertilizer should be applied according to package directions. Blooms should be removed when they start to wither away, and watering should gradually be reduced until the foliage dies.
Those with children and pets should use caution when growing calla lilies. They contain a poisonous ingredient called oxalic acid. If this plant is ingested, a poison control center should be called immediately.
Orchids that is another can of warms each variety has its own personality. Do you know the name of yours? Most orchids will tolerate cool indoor temps, they like humidity( I keep mine in a pot on top of a bed of rocks with a little water miix with the rocks-which gives off humidity naturally.Orchids do not like to sit in water.I take mine to the sink and water it and let the water drain out the bottom of the pot. I give it orchid food until it starts to flower--once it flowers I do not feed it..They like bright light not direct sun light. South east exposure is very good..
Caring for an Indoor Ficus benjamina
Ficus benjamina is a beautiful plant that is commonly grown
indoors as a houseplant. A well-kept Ficus can add dramatic
interest to an otherwise plain room, and like other
houseplants, it will help clean the indoor air. However,
ficus are notorious for dropping their leaves and generally
being difficult to care for. Some insight into their likes
and dislikes will help you keep your Ficus benjamina happy.
Ficus benjamina do best in high humidity but they don't like
to have wet feet. The plants may be misted daily, but they
should be watered only when the top two inches of their soil
feels dry to the touch. The soil should be allowed to dry
slightly between waterings in the winter. Overwatering will
cause ficus leaves to turn yellow and drop.
Ficus are homebodies. Once they are settled into a spot they
like, they will protest by dropping leaves if they are moved
to another location. Ficus prefer bright, filtered light and
a consistent air temperature. Keep your ficus away from
drafty outside doors, large windows that change temperature
throughout the day, and heater vents. Avoid locations that
receive direct sun all day.
During the growing season, your ficus should be fertilized
monthly with a slow-release fertilizer or half-strength liquid
fertilizer. Do not fertilize a ficus during the winter when
it is not actively growing.
Ficus benjamina doesn't mind being a bit root bound, but if
they become too crowded in their pot, new leaves will be small
and the plant will grow slowly. Ficus can be repotted in late
winter or early spring, when they're as close to dormant as
they'll get. Use a well draining potting soil in a slightly
larger pot when repotting your ficus.
If your ficus begins to drop leaves, check the soil moisture.
Decrease watering if necessary, give it some mist daily but
don't fertilize the plant. If it's getting too much or not
enough light, move it to a better area. Then be patient
because it can take several weeks for the plant to adjust
and stop dropping leaves.
Many of the above practices can be applied in varying degrees to all indoor plants in general. Know your plant and its enemies, find the right;location,container,soil,light,water,temperture and fertilizer. Remember to read the plant label, and be patient!
Caring for a Rubber Tree
Rubber trees, or Ficus elastica, are often grown in homes and
offices because they require very little care and are easy to
grow. Rubber trees prefer to be where they will receive
bright light, but they dislike being exposed to direct sunlight.
They should be kept away from cold drafts and blasts of warm
air from heating vents.
During the spring and summer growing season, rubber trees will
be happy if their soil is kept evenly moist, but the rest of
the year they like their soil to be slightly on the dry side.
Too much water may cause a rubber tree's leaves to turn yellow
and drop, so provide your rubber tree with good drainage and do
not allow the soil to become soggy.
The large, broad leaves of a rubber tree may be sponged off with
a soft damp cloth to keep them clean and attractive. There are
Neem oil products available for cleaning plant leaves that will
give the leaves a nice shine. Neem oil is also a safe
insecticide, although rubber trees are rarely bothered by insects.
If left unpruned, rubber trees tend to grow as one long, leggy
stem. To encourage a rubber tree to become full and compact,
the plant may be pruned back. Pruning won't hurt the plant
even though it will ooze its milky sap from the wound. The
sap is just the plant's way of protecting and healing the wound.
To keep a rubber tree from getting taller, the growing tip may
be pinched or clipped off. This will encourage the plant to
develop more branches. If the entire plant is already too tall,
it may be cut back to the desired height and new growth will
begin to grow below the pruning cut. Branches that are becoming
too long may be pruned back to at least two healthy leaves, or
removed entirely.
Rubber trees grow outdoors in climates where temperatures stay
above 40 degrees year round. In cooler climates, a potted
rubber tree may be kept outdoors out of direct sunlight during
the summer months, but the plant may drop some leaves in
response to changes in the amount of light it is accustomed
